The past meets the future at Kim Jones' avant-garde Dior Men's Spring/Summer 2024 show.

Anyone who’s ever attended a fashion show (or even watched a live stream) is familiar with the drill: following a quick stop at the photo wall, guests are escorted to their assigned seats, watching in silence as models parade the runway. Applause is usually reserved for the finale. The scenario, however, could not have been farther from the norm at the Dior Men’s Spring/Summer 2024 show.

Five years into his tenure at the helm of Dior Men, Kim Jones unveiled his milestone collection with an unforgettable coup de théâtre. Hosted on the grounds of the École Militaire in Paris, the Dior Men’s Spring/Summer 2024 show venue was essentially a monochromatic gray chamber, where guests lined up on both sides of the vast runway – or so they thought it was.

It wasn’t long before it was revealed that the purpose-built runway was anything but a conventional one as the glossy metallic tiles thereof dislodged to ascend an army of 51 models from underneath. The atmosphere in the tent instantly shifted from anticipation to sheer awe. The room erupted in cheers of delight – a fitting response to commemorate Jones’ five-year journey at Dior.

Jones later revealed that Monsieur Dior‘s beloved garden inspired the idea of the runway spectacle. Sprouting from the floor through trap doors and hydraulic platforms, the models represented the rich blossom of Christian Dior’s jardin.

A design genius, Jones is no stranger to the fact that the house of Dior rests on a solid foundation of skilled craftsmanship and impeccable tailoring. “Dior is an haute couture house; it is all about the clothes,” Jones remarked. And that it was. While the show’s dramatic opening indeed enthralled the audience, as soon as the models strutted the avant-garde runway, it was the garments that guided eyeballs thereon.

For the Dior Men’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection, Jones drew inspiration from the works of his legendary predecessors at Dior–including Yves Saint Laurent, Gianfranco Ferré, and Marc Bohan– enmeshing house codes typical to their times with his own design signatures. The Maison’s emblematic ‘Cannage’ pattern–inspired by Monsieur Dior’s fondness for woven rattan chairs–appeared on marled jacquard knits.

Tweed (a fabric synonymous with Chanel) was boldly reimagined to fit into the wardrobe of the modern Dior man. The Dior Men’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection included long tweed coats, high-waisted tweed pants, and even accessories like shoes and bags crafted from the luxe material. Jones introduced the ‘Cannage’ print in tweed, while the linear motif is also audaciously imagined with rhinestones.

Tailored shirts and suiting, cabochon embroideries, elegant vests and jackets, and relaxed pants cropped just above the ankles to reveal thick-soled brogues created a symphony of textures and colors. Jones cleverly juxtaposed luxury elements with contemporary sportswear, interlacing embroidered plastic, raffia, sequins, and beading into posh materials like tweed. Covetable accessories like wide-strapped sandals, chunky tweed loafers, the iconic ‘Saddle’ bag in bejeweled and tweed avatars, and knitted caps in poppy hues, elevated each look. Handbags adorned with a metal logo derived from the signature letter charms of the ‘Lady Dior’.

Dior’s Mitzah Bricard-inspired leopard print also found place in Jones’ latest collection where it was imprinted on vests and handbags. Eye-catching shades of bright pink, orange, and neon green added a streak of vibrancy to the sophisticated sea of gray, beige, and navy.

The celebratory Dior Men’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection was a testimony to Jones’ creative mastery and his unmatched ability to marry the past, present, and future. Staying true to the Maison’s roots, honoring the work of the remarkable designers that held its creative reigns, Jones laced the collection with a contemporary twist, seamlessly harmonizing tradition with innovation.