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A DEBRIEF ON SS24’S JEWELRY 7 KEY TRENDS.

WRITTEN BY: JESSY A. - FOUNDER OF THE JEWELLERY PENTHOUSE.
Sarah Burton’s swansong for Alexander McQueen, Sabato De Sarno’s highly anticipated debut collection for Gucci, Mugler’s runway homecoming, the persistent scrutiny on a newly birthed Rabanne after its drop of “Paco,” and Balmain dominating the catwalk despite its garment heist a few weeks prior, are mere antipasti of the events that transpired during this year’s Spring/Summer shows.

Jewelry’s trends, too, reflect the swathes of boldness witnessed throughout. We present our seven most notable trends that had our jewelry  radar buzzing in a frenzy, preparing you for a touch of elevation come spring, come summer.

Boho-Chic Bead Layering.

An injection of colour, a sprinkle of whimsy and soft fluidity – these are a few of our favourite things that all bead-filled looks portrayed on the runways of Emporio Armani, Isabel Marant and Arthur Arbesser. The underlying commonality between said aesthetic is the multi layered silhouette of swaying beaded necklaces. Ralph Lauren showcased the trend in full range, from its warmer colour combinations to its monotone beaded layering, offering the looks a je-ne-sais-quoi element. The trend is an opportunity to embrace a boho chic aesthetic with emphasis on the former, through long exaggerated necklaces or the latter with choker-like beaded necklaces.

Whimsical Animal Kingdom Motifs.

From Y/Project’s life-like snake necklace to Erdem’s farm-chic mismatched hen, Coach’s menacing spider earrings to Blumarine’s hypnotic dragonfly earrings, an homage to the creatures that walk, crawl and fly the earth was ever-present. Providing an unmatched eccentricity, the pieces reminded its audience of fashion’s fundamental playful nature. While this season marked a firm departure from Mermaidcore, its remnants were stunningly showcased by Valentino’s pearl clutching mermaid ear cuff and the moment that defined SS24 – Schiaparelli’s golden lobster necklace latching onto the models’ perfectly tailored little black dress.

Exaggerated Oversized Hoops.

With the general consensus of hoops’ aesthetic power, a pair residing in every jewelry lover’s repertoire, this season hyperbolises the once-upon-a-huggie craze into a new dimension – the XXL hoop. The eye-wateringly large accessory was spotted dangling on Carolina Herra, Prabal Gurung and Tove’s runaways. An exaggerated hoop is the ideal addition to one’s aesthetic, inviting a second look from onlookers, if not for its silhouette, then for the sheer comprehension of its defiance of gravity. A statement maker’s essential.

Mismatched Earrings’ Charm.

In an era where mismatched earrings are a quiet lull in the background of jewelry dressing, an occasional styling choice one rebels with against the traditional wearing of earrings as a pair (or one resorts to out of sheer convenience) – the charm of earrings’ asymmetry, flooded the lenses of the front row. Erdem, Fendi, Schiaparelli, and Valentino’s seal of approval of the trend allow two lone earring halves to meet again on the lobes of those desiring to embrace one of jewelry ’s most wearable trends.

The Unwavering Cuff.

While this season traded wool for organza, the steadfast insouciance of the statement cuff remains. Jewelry ’s ultimate “one and done” ruse allows wearers to enjoy the aesthetic perks of an otherwise carefully curated selection of bracelets. Interestingly, this season showcased a peculiar popularity of voluminous cuffs by Louis Vuitton, Alaïa and of course Schiaparelli to name but a few. The statement piece’s ability to morph from the ideal office chic companion, to the perfect juxtaposing touch to a feminine aesthetic, makes the cuff one of the most versatile pieces in one’s jewelry  arsenal, ready to slip on no matter the styling sentiment.

The Metal Trio – Liquified, Sculptural and Mixed.

The metallic craze embodied by the runway’s standout accessories, mirrored a similar obsession with the glossy appeal from a garment’s perspective as showcased by Roksanda, Ralph Lauren and Alberta Ferretti to name but a few. Nevertheless, the interpretation of Spring/Summer’s glistening aesthetic demonstrated immense range. Most notable were captivating depictions of the illusion of liquified metal such as Courrèges’ melting droplet pendant, LaQuan Smith’s undulating earrings and Bottega Veneta’s dimpled earrings as if actively rippling. The likes of Tom Ford and Loewe opted for a sculptural version of the aforementioned trend with their impossibly bold cuffs. Still, a handful of Maisons took to mixing metals with alternative materials such as leather as showcased by Hérmes, suede rope in the case of Valentino and fabric as portrayed by Etro.

Captivating Circular Silhouettes.

This season’s overarching theme, a redux of circular silhouettes, was underpinned across all jewelry categories including earrings, necklaces, rings and bracelets. The curved edges and motifs embedded within an overwhelming number of this season’s accessories, lent pieces a soft aesthetic. A number of circular motif baring necklaces, by The Attico, Ermanno Scervino, Feben and Co captivated the audience, with Gucci’s repeated puffy motif as a pivotal piece defining Sabato De Sarno’s reign of the Maison in “Look 1.”

A metallic frenzy, a layer of eccentricity and the reinterpretation of timeless classics, Spring/Summer’s jewelry  trends offer wearer’s the opportunity to express their individuality and allow for near-theatrical moments with their pieces beyond the run-of-the-mill “Florals? For spring? Ground-breaking.”

ALSO READ: PALIROOTS AND ELYANNA RELEASE A COLLABORATIVE NECKLACE IN HONOR OF PALESTINE.