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Luxury jeweller Amandine Mallen on the freedoms of not being tethered to trends

"My creations depend only on my own inspirations"
As much as trends and fads pave the way for the greater fashion narrative, there's nothing like your own instinctive choices to tell a story rich in expression and creativity. Amandine Mallen weighs in on how luxury can be very freeing if you are left to your own devices...

How do you describe your passion and your relationship with jewellery?

It’s more or less my alpha and omega. First of all, I love stones. Even when I am on a day off, not a day goes by that I don’t open the safe, take out some stones and play with them and dream about how I am going to apply them on a necklace, a bracelet or a ring.

What made you want to become a jewellery designer?

Well, I actually married a gem dealer when I was very young, so this was a natural next step for me. I later studied at the GIA Laboratory in Carlsbad, California. After that, I have always dreamed of making my own creations come to life. 

Tell us a little more about how Amandine Mallen came to be?

In 2012, after having created for Procop, Garrard and Asprey, I decided to be free and to propose to clients, who have become good friends of mine, the original creations of a woman designer, in a field mostly dominated by men. 

Can you describe your design studio and the creative team working with you?

I am very lucky to have my studio on the one and only place Vendôme in Paris. It is impossible not to feel the inspirational vibes from such a place. I work with a very tiny and close team, and spend a lot of time with the artisans.

What did you love most about your jewellery’s expression?

Since the brand does not belong to any group or is attached to any fashion trends, I am free to create as I wish. My creations depend only on my own inspirations and this is, without a doubt, what I love most about my jewellery expression. 

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What has changed the most in the past since you’ve been designing?

Since I have started the brand I feel that everything has become more standard, and it is exactly what I try to avoid. 

Who is the Amandine Mallen woman today?

My clients are all different but what is remarkable is that most of them order and buy my creations themselves. So, I can say that the Amandine Mallen is an independent woman.  

Are stores still essential to the luxury experience?

Not at all. In my field, what really counts is the discretion and proximity between the customer and the designer. So, for me it’s more important to receive my clients in the privacy of my studio than in a big store.

What is the best part of your job?

The encounters and the complicity that I have established with the women and men that come to me to create a bespoke piece. 

 How do you keep your ideas and the creative dialogue fresh?

I travel a lot and I am lucky enough to meet people interesting people all around the world. I also have clients who have become real friends, inviting me to their homes and make me discover unique places and art collections that inspire me to create new and unusual pieces. 

What does the current generation look for in a brand?

The new generation is much less conventional than its predecessor. Before, a woman started her collection with a diamond piece, then added colourful gems and finally, costume jewellery. Today, a young woman is perfectly capable of ordering her very first ring with a statement pink or mauve gemstone with a titanium frame without thinking twice. 

What are your thoughts on the Middle Eastern market?

I think that the Middle East is a very interesting market. My clients in the region are very educated and very generous. They are open to different creations, choice of gems and assembles and it is a great opportunity for me to be able to work with such sophisticated clients.