Visions of fashion’s future

Discover the small, independent labels inspiring positive change for a little spark of joy...

The reflection fatigue is real. We have more time to thought canvas, well, everything โ€“ from past relationships (a large portion of this we owe to Normal People) to past purchases. In our newfound spirit of taking stock, asking ourselves: Do I really need this in my life? Will it make me happy? Our shopping habits have already shifted. We want comfort. Our appetite for newness is not going to disappear altogether, but thereโ€™s a craving for investing in made-to-treasure pieces. And so, supporting smaller independent brands โ€“ with a focus on considered craftsmanship and sustainably-made items โ€“ feels all the more imperative.

โ€œThe future of fashion is evolving as we speak,โ€ says Robyn Berkley, founder of activewear label Live The Process. โ€œChange is screaming and wants to be heard while we all take a pause. Things need to change in order to evolve: It could not stay the way it was or is. People speak of incorporating authenticity, community, connection to oneself and world, sustainability as a practice and an idealism into their daily life. I think this will be seen throughout the fashion industry.โ€

While people will always โ€œcherish high-fashionโ€, Robyn says hopefully the world will โ€œslow down enough in order to really appreciate and take pride in creation, as so much work goes into every aspect and should not be replaced so fast.โ€ For a slow-fashion alternative, why not seek out sumptuous silk separates made in North London, or a French family-run label for romantic silhouettes that you can dream of wearing in rural idyll โ€“ someday.

3AM ETERNAL

@3AM_ETERNAL

In brief: Upcycled collections inspired by everything from 1960s cinema, 1990s couture and street photography; masterminded by sister design duo Emily and Caitlin Price.

Describe your aesthetic in three words? โ€œPlayful, optic, fantasy.โ€

The future of fashion? โ€œCircular. We source each garment ourselves and then work on reviving each item by hand, to create new items which we sell direct to customers on our e-store.โ€

Dream customer? โ€œRosalรญa. We love her music; she exudes a powerful female energy.โ€ โ€“ Caitlin Price. To shop, click here.

HONNA

@HONNA.LONDON

In brief: Your new favourite British sleepwear brand, founded by style editor Barbara McMillan. Inspired by linens, antiques, hand-painted patterns and tableware, HONNAโ€™s classic striped designs from are made-to-treasure.

Describe your aesthetic in three words? โ€œTimeless, feminine, chic.โ€

The future of fashion? โ€œSlow. The mood is definitely changing. From the way we shop, who we buy from, the fabrics we choose to how often weโ€™re shopping – it feels like weโ€™re moving forwards by stepping back. Consumers appear to be buying pieces that last beyond a single season, from brands that produce smaller runs, with care and attention to detail. There’s so much to be had from buying less and making it last.โ€

Dream customer? โ€œBeing so new I get so much joy from every email or Instagram message I get from someone who has worn and loves the shape, or colour or feel of our pyjamas. I don’t know if and when that will ever change. But, at a push, maybe Gwyneth Paltrow.โ€ To shop, click here.

O PIONEERS

@O_PIONEERSUK

In brief: Yearning for your care-free youth? We direct your attention to this a small North London-based clothing label, which dreams up dresses that is part March sister (co-founder Clara Francis actually made a beaded headpiece for Emma Watson in Little Women), part 1970s flower child.

Describe your aesthetic in three words? โ€œElegant, nostalgic, functional.โ€

The future of fashion? โ€œBeing conscious: of provenance, of the environment, of the people who are involved in the making of our clothes, of choosing well-made โ€˜forever piecesโ€™ that will stand the test of time. Paying more attention to beautifully crafted pieces that are cherished and can be passed down.โ€

Dream customer? โ€œAny woman who isnโ€™t afraid to dress differently; who has the confidence to stand out in a crowd and knows the value of a beautifully cut, flattering frock. Chloรซ Sevigny or Julianne Moore would be dreamy to dress.โ€ โ€“ Clara Francis. To shop, click here.

S.A.R.K

@SARK_LONDON

In brief: Your search for the perfect silk shirt is officially over. This new London label, founded by former stylist and costume designer Lauren Grant, takes inspiration from Guy Bourdinโ€™s glamourous photography to 1980s Princess Diana.

Describe your aesthetic in three words? โ€œDecadent, debauched, refined.โ€

The future of fashion? โ€œA phasing out of tat in favour of investment pieces that are made with attention to detail, fit beautifully and treasured for years to come.โ€

Dream customer? โ€œThe Queen. Because I would love to see her in a silk shirt covered in crushed cigarette packets or polka-dotted with Valium pills.โ€ To shop, click here.

ZAZI VINTAGE

@ZAZI.VINTAGE

In brief: Founded by Dutch entrepreneur Jeanne de Kroon, this luxury ethical label uses vintage materials in cooperation with artisans worldwide, with every unique piece rooted in nature and human storytelling.

Describe your aesthetic in three words? โ€œColourful, connected, community.โ€

The future of fashion? โ€œA future where we can reconnect to the stories that are interwoven with what we wear.โ€

Dream customer? โ€œAll the top CEO’s of all the luxury and fast fashion groups. I would love to show them what they could change if they opened up their hearts and listened to all the powerful stories left untold.โ€ To shop, click here.

MAISON CLร‰O

@MAISONCLEO

In brief: The mother-daughter duo behind the Insta-famous French brand, Clรฉo and Marie Dewet, create handmade garments; from puffy sleeved blouses to whimsical summer dresses (their e-store opens every Wednesday). Oh, and you get a free scrunchie with every order.

Describe your aesthetic in three words? โ€œAuthentic, simple, relationship.โ€

The future of fashion? โ€œBack to the future.โ€

Dream customer? โ€œBritney Spears, because she was my idol when I was young.โ€ โ€“ Marie Dewet. To shop, click here.

HYUN MI NIELSEN

@HYUNMI.NIELSEN

In brief: A fabulous fusion of dark glamour and new wave rebellion, founded by Christine Nielsen (before setting up her own label she was Head of Studio at Balenciaga). โ€œI find inspiration in many things,โ€ Nielsen says. โ€œIt could be a leaf slowly falling from the sky or the warm touch of leather.โ€

Describe your aesthetic in three words? โ€œStark Poetic Realness.โ€

The future of fashion? โ€œA reflection of our times.โ€

Dream customer? โ€œI love women who express themselves freely, and with great strength, like FKA twigs or Viola Davies. What they say is heartfelt and real.โ€ To shop, click here.

ROOP

@ITSROOPER

In brief: Fun arm candy, for those who are more fantastic than realist. Founder Natasha Fernandes Anjo creates all her ‘scrunchie’, Furoshiki-style bags from deadstock or vintage fabrics.

Describe your aesthetic in three words? โ€œPlayful, colourful, scrunched!โ€

The future of fashion? โ€œSlow, innovative and inclusive.โ€

Dream customer? โ€œSolange! Always and forever Solange. Not only is her style unbelievable, she’s an amazing multidisciplinary artist and is basically my idol.โ€ To shop, click here.

LIVE THE PROCESS

@LIVETHEPROCESS

In brief: Drawing inspiration from architecture, nature and spirituality, this cult NYC-based brand, from Robyn Berkley, creates super comfy and versatile pre/during/post workout attire. You will want to live in their knitted trousers.

Describe your aesthetic in three words? โ€œTimeless, feminine, transitional.โ€

The future of fashion? โ€œEvolving and very much alive.โ€

Dream customer? โ€œA person who celebrates their body.โ€ To shop, click here.

NARA NIRO

@NARA.NIRO

In brief: Specialising in hand embroidery and dyeing techniques, Nara Naro, founded by Noor Rahim, bases collections around scenes or people encountered in art and literature. โ€Iโ€™m particularly mesmerised by Japan in my work,โ€ Rahim says. โ€œThe woodblock prints, the anime heroines, the Kurosawa samurais and the ethereal landscape. There is a strange and moving beauty in its silence.โ€

Describe your aesthetic in three words? โ€œSensitive, imaginative and bold.โ€

The future of fashion? โ€œPurpose and thoughtfulness. It is more important now than ever to create things mindfully, produce them with careful consideration to the supply chain, and communicate your message with integrity.โ€

Dream customer? โ€œMarion Cotillard. She acts with passion on screen and compassion in real life. Not only a wonderful actress and incredibly beautiful, she is purposeful and an avid environmentalist.โ€ To shop, click here.

CINTA THE LABEL

@CINTA_THE_LABEL

In brief: A riff on Spanish flamenco styles (the brandโ€™s founder Amy Sturgis grew up on the Spanish shores) by way of romantic ruffles, luxurious silk separates and slip dresses (purveyors of astro-chic, see the silver moonshine โ€˜Taurusโ€™ style).

Describe your aesthetic in three words? โ€œCool, silky and fun.โ€

The future of fashion? โ€œMindful production and mindful consumption.โ€

Dream customer? โ€œBeyoncรฉ, she is the queen. I was lucky enough to be present during that Coachella performance and WOW.โ€ To shop, click here.

TALLER MARMO

@TALLERMARMO

In brief: Unapologetic nostalagia, from Argentinian-Italian duo designers, Riccardo Audisio and Yago Goicoechea. Hello, psychedelic โ€˜LSDโ€™ patterned dresses, jumpsuits and silk maxi dresses – weโ€™ve missed you.

Describe your aesthetic in three words? โ€œRelaxed, chic and fabulous.โ€

The future of fashion? โ€œSustainable. Thatโ€™s not just about an organic fabric, but to consider the people involved in the manufacturing process, from the producers of the threads to the seamstresses.โ€

Dream customer? โ€œDiana Ross, because she is the most fabulous woman on earth!โ€ To shop, click here.

First published on Buro247.com