Offering us all an escape from reality, Schiaparelli kicked off Haute Couture Fashion Week with a stunning collection – and it certainly did not disappoint. Marking its first in-person showcase since the pandemic, Daniel Roseberry continued his winning streak of giving us hope in magic via inventive designs and otherworldly silhouettes.
Still infusing Schiaparelli’s codes, the larger-than-life collection was toned down in terms of colour palette (think black, white and gold) but the designs most certainly were not, with Roseberry sending some of the most otherworldly shapes we have seen to date down the runway – taking the fashion world by storm.
At Dior, soft tailoring and fluid volumes were some of the standout silhouettes presented by Maria Grazia Chiuri. Emphasizing the Maison’s assured elegance, the Spring-Summer 2022 couture collection encapsulated a contemporary world with neat jackets, geometrical patterns, cleanliness of construction, embroidery and excellent techniques. Viewing fashion as art, the Creative Director made sure that with every look sent down the runway, the boundaries between art and craft were non-existent.
Embodying the harmonies between horse and rider, Chanel opened its Haute Couture show with ambassador and distinguished horsewoman, Charlotte Casiraghi – giving us the ‘ol giddy-up of what’s to come. The collection carried an ethereal lightness that featured some of Karl’s signature codes and Virginie Viard’s approach to the iconic fashion house. For example, she reinvented the Chanel suit featuring a round neck hourglass jacket trimmed with contrasting crystal braids is worn with matching wide trousers in a fusion of structure and drape.
The collection also featured elegant proportions (we’re eyeing those full-length jackets), eveningwear was a win (with the exception of a few midriff-baring pieces in sheer black chiffon); sequined slip-dresses with feathers at the bodice and a white silk dress with a jewelled halter neck.
At Alexandre Vauthier, high-octane glamour came back roaring the fashion crowd. Designing with movement in mind, the designer opted for softer gowns (although he showcased silhouettes for his red carpet clientele) and featured broad-shoulders, cinched suiting and plenty of glitz and glam. Reimagined in velvet (a popular choice of material this season), he combined it with plenty of sequins, fluid, drop-waist dresses and chic layers.
Couture of the moment, Giambattista Valli brought his Parisian glamour to the runway, continuing to highlight the romanticism of the Valli brand. The line-up features his signature tiered layer cake ballgowns, ballooning silhouettes and voluminous designs that are bursting with life and optimism.
Stéphane Rolland returned to the runway for the first time since the pandemic, bringing with him an array of feminine draped dresses and billowing cloud-like gowns in bold hues and cuts. Rolland’s muse, the Spanish model Nieves Alvarez (who celebrates 30 years on the runway), strode down the catwalk in a hooded golden metallic blazer paired with wide pants in white wool. We also fell in love with a series of fluid kaftans made of satin crepe in black and ivory tones, and sculptural silhouettes.
Pierpaolo Piccioli gets down to the anatomy of Haute Couture as he changes the rules and constructs of couture fashion. Rewriting the process, Valentino’s Haute Couture collection continued to showcase artful, bold colours and impeccable silhouettes, proving why it has become one of the most highly-anticipated events on the fashion calendar. Featuring the highest degree of craftsmanship, the collection featured dresses both unembellished and covered in sequins and beading, perfectly fitted to the model – courtesy of the casting of different ages and body types. The collection also delivered outerwear and eveningwear, from streamlined strapless ballgowns to elegant separates that would stun on the red carpet.