In a move that has sent ripples through the fashion industry, Chanel has announced the departure of Virginie Viard, the artistic director who took the helm following the legendary Karl Lagerfeld’s death in 2019. Viard, who served the iconic fashion house for nearly three decades, leaves after a five-year tenure as the Creative Director marked by soaring sales yet mixed critical reception.
Viard’s journey with Chanel began long before she stepped into the limelight as artistic director. Starting as an intern in haute couture embroidery in 1987 upon Lagerfeld’s suggestion, she quickly became an integral part of the brand. For years, she worked closely with Lagerfeld, who famously referred to her as both his left and right arm. This deep connection was evident throughout their years together, culminating in Viard taking the final bow in Lagerfeld’s place at the couture show in January 2019, just before his passing.
Viard’s career at Chanel was briefly interrupted when she followed Lagerfeld to Chloé in 1992, but she returned to Chanel’s haute couture department five years later and transitioned to ready-to-wear in 2000. Her ascent to the role of artistic director in 2019 came at a precarious moment, as the fashion world grappled with the loss of Lagerfeld, who had led Chanel for over 35 years. Her intimate knowledge of the brand’s heritage and her deep connection with Lagerfeld made her an obvious choice for a successor following Lagerfeld’s death.Â
Under Viard’s leadership, Chanel saw its annual revenues rise to an impressive $19.7 billion in 2023, up 16 percent from the previous year. Despite these financial successes, her collections frequently faced harsh critiques.
She attempted to rejuvenate Chanel with designs featuring her signature bow ties, various shorts, and a nod to 1980s silhouettes, though these efforts often received lukewarm responses from the fashion community. While at the helm, Viard aimed to maintain Lagerfeld’s design principles while infusing her own youthful viewpoint. She introduced new styles that catered to a contemporary audience seeking both fun and functional fashion.However, many within the industry thought that her attempts to make Chanel “young” often fell flat.
The timing of Viard’s departure is notable. This shake-up follows closely on the heels of significant changes at other major fashion houses, such as Pierpaolo Piccioli‘s replacement by Alessandro Michele at Valentino, and ongoing rumors about Hedi Slimane‘s potential exit from Celine. Viard’s departure also leaves the position of Creative Director at one go the biggest luxury brands in the world open, posing the inevitable question: who will take on the reigns at Chanel?
The fashion world is already abuzz with speculation regarding Viard’s successor, with names like Hedi Slimane and Pierpaolo Piccioli frequently mentioned. Chanel, the second largest luxury brand globally, has promised to reveal its new creative direction soon.
Chanel’s brief statement on Viard’s exit was respectful, acknowledging her nearly 30-year tenure during which she managed to balance renewing the house’s codes while honoring its creative legacy. Despite the abruptness of the announcement, Chanel assured that the upcoming couture show in Paris this June will proceed as planned. Whether Viard will take her final lap at the show, remains to be confirmed.
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