Bvlgari, the Magnificent Roman High Jeweler, returns to Dubai Watch Week with a creation that feels both like a homage and a revelation. This year, the maison unveils a limited-edition masterpiece that seamlessly blends Italian design codes with the poetic depth of Emirati creativity: the Mattar Bin Lahej x Octo Finissimo.
Held under the patronage of H.H. Sheikha Latifa bint Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Chairperson of Dubai Culture & Arts Authority, the 7th edition of Dubai Watch Week runs from 19–23 November at Dubai Mall, Burj Park — the perfect stage for a piece born from cultural dialogue.
Laser-engraved Arabic calligraphy stretches across the titanium case, bracelet, and dial, transforming the Octo Finissimo into a sculpture in motion. Inspired by the words of His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, “The future will be for those who can imagine, design, and implement it…”, the collaboration channels both artistic heritage and Bvlgari’s relentless pursuit of technical mastery.
BURO had the exclusive opportunity to sit down with Jonathan Birnbaum, Bvlgari’s Managing Director of Watches, to discuss the inspiration, craftsmanship, and cultural significance behind this unique collaboration.
BVLGARI IS KNOWN FOR BOTH ITS ITALIAN DESIGN AND TECHNICAL MASTERY. HOW DO YOU SEE THIS COMBINATION RESONATING WITH MIDDLE EASTERN COLLECTORS HERE AT DUBAI WATCH WEEK?
We’ve seen a tremendous rise of interest in Dubai from collectors, both men and women, which is particularly important for us. The Octo Finissimo saga began 12 years ago with a pure design idea: a watch slim enough to slip perfectly under a shirt cuff. That design constraint pushed us to develop movements thin enough to fit within a 3.5mm case.
From the very beginning, collectors in Dubai connected with the Finissimo, its 10 world records, its collaborations, its architectural precision. There has always been an outstanding passion from collectors here. And with this latest collaboration with Math, it was important for us to pay tribute to the culture of the region and create something that truly speaks to local collectors.
Dubai is the perfect place for us. We speak to seasoned collectors with Finissimo, but we also engage an increasingly strong female audience, something vital for a brand born from jewelry and femininity. We have two strong pillars, and Dubai gives us the perfect audience for both.
DUBAI WATCH WEEK BRINGS TOGETHER ENTHUSIASTS AND FIRST-TIME COLLECTORS ALIKE. HOW DOES BVLGARI ENGAGE WITH BOTH AUDIENCES DURING THE EVENT?
It’s an interesting question because BVLGARI’s watchmaking history is relatively young, 25 years since acquiring our manufactures, and only 12 years since launching Finissimo. In watchmaking terms, that’s nothing. So naturally, we speak to newcomers. Finissimo’s modern, architectural design resonates strongly with first-timers and younger clients. But at the same time, those 10 world records and the technical mastery behind them have opened the doors to the world’s most serious collectors.
That’s why we love events like Dubai Watch Week or Geneva Watch Days: they’re open to the public, yet they attract some of the most sophisticated collectors alongside young enthusiasts who simply love design. Finissimo allows us to bridge both worlds without creating barriers, we never intended it to be a watch “for someone specific,” and that universality is a huge part of its success.
WHAT CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT THE BRAND’S COLLABORATION WITH EMIRATI ARTIST MATTAR BIN LAHEJ AND THE NEW OCTO FINISSIMO?
There’s so much to say. First, Finissimo is rooted in design and technical mastery. The movement inside is ultra-thin and highly sophisticated, there is an enormous amount of craftsmanship behind it. But Finissimo has also become a canvas for artists, which is something Fabrizio (our Creative Director) has developed beautifully in recent years.
Every artistic collaboration begins with one question: Which artist’s universe can naturally connect with BVLGARI? Mattar was a perfect match. His work is grounded in architecture, just like Finissimo. Calligraphy, which we’ve explored before, becomes exceptionally expressive through the laser engraving technique we’ve used on titanium. And most importantly, the message he wrote on the watch speaks about building the future, something deeply aligned with our philosophy. Finissimo is a young 12-year-old design sitting within a 140-year-old maison, constantly pushing forward. This collaboration embodies that bridge between heritage and modernity.
HAS IT ALREADY BEEN SOLD OUT?
Almost! By midday we were already at 180% of demand. There are only 70 pieces, plus 10 for our Seddiqi partners. Similar to what happened at Geneva Watch Days, where 150 pieces sold out in 24 hours, we expect this one to be fully gone by tomorrow. It’s an incredibly special piece.
OTHER THAN THE OCTO, ARE THERE ANY INNOVATIONS OR SURPRISES YOU’RE PRESENTING THIS YEAR? AND HAVE YOU WORKED ON ANY MECHANISMS AS CHALLENGING AS THE OCTO?
We’ve been speaking a lot about men’s watches, Finissimo, the Math collaboration, and our recent GPHG win. But earlier this year, we launched something equally important: a new ladies’ movement, the Piccolissimo, which debuted in January and returned at Watches & Wonders.
For us, the connection between these two pillars, men’s ultra-thin watchmaking and women’s miniature watchmaking, is crucial. Everything we mastered in thinness is now applied to volumetric miniaturization for women’s watches. It’s not about shrinking a men’s model and adding diamonds; it’s about a movement and design created from scratch for women.
And this is where BVLGARI is unique. The Serpenti Tubogas and Serpenti Seduttori are the only iconic ladies’ watches in the industry truly born from feminine design, not a scaled-down masculine model. Women today want watches that are theirs, not inherited silhouettes, and that’s where we have a strong message to deliver.
HOW IMPORTANT IS THE MIDDLE EAST MARKET FOR BVLGARI WATCHES, AND HOW DO EVENTS LIKE DUBAI WATCH WEEK HELP STRENGTHEN THAT CONNECTION?
The Middle East is incredibly important for us, our regional share is significant, even higher than some competitors. Historically, the architectural nature of BVLGARI design has always resonated strongly here. Wearing BVLGARI is a statement, and clients in the region have always embraced that identity.
Dubai Watch Week has evolved into a major global moment for collectors. This year especially, the venue is full, the atmosphere is exceptional, and the organization is remarkable. For us, Watches & Wonders dominates the first half of the year, and Dubai Watch Week now stands as the highlight of the second half. We look forward to it, and we’re sure this year’s results will be outstanding.
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