RUNWAY RECAP: UNFORGETTABLE MOMENTS FROM PARIS FASHION WEEK FALL/WINTER 2025.

ANREALAGE

Anrealage kicked things off by proving clothes can do more than just sit pretty—they can react. “The Screen” collection relied on pinpoint-sized LEDs that shift in color according to the wearer’s mood, ensuring your outfit can literally glow when you’re feeling yourself. Past pixelated prints gave way to dynamic, digitally powered garments that brought sci-fi energy straight to the front row.

DIOR

At Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri revisited classic house elements and pulled them into modern times with ease. She brought back John Galliano’s famous “J’adore Dior” T-shirt, sprinkled in baroque pearls, and teamed them with masculine jackets for a fresh spin on feminine dressing. As the models strutted through a stage filled with fast-moving meteoroids and icebergs, the contrast of timeless references against a cosmic backdrop showed that Dior’s heritage can still break new ground without losing its iconic spark.

ALAÏA

Alaïa returned to its Paris atelier, incorporating sculptures by Mark Manders for a vibe that was part gallery, part runway. The pieces showcased dramatic, curvaceous shapes—cocoon-like hoods, sea-anemone shoulders, and metal tubing woven into jersey to accent the body’s form. True to Alaïa’s DNA, even the most avant-garde looks remained wearable, bridging artful experimentation with a design philosophy rooted in the female form.

STELLA MCCARTNEY

Corpcore got an after-hours upgrade at Stella McCartney’s “From Laptop to Lapdance” show. Day-to-night suiting, fused with fungi-based textiles, redefined what sustainability can look (and feel) like. Inflated hooded coats, bare-bottomed nods to ’80s decadence, and a cameo by adidas x Stella McCartney, the collection made it clear that ethics and over-the-top glam can absolutely go hand in hand.

ACNE STUDIOS

Think an art-pop dreamscape set to Björk: that’s Acne Studios. Purple drapes, surreal cityscapes, and fuzzy toy textures were the name of the game. Jonny Johansson took a page from the fabulous ’80s book of style, balancing big bows and check tailoring with nearly bare “naked dressing.”. A side of supersized felt boots left no doubt this was a show meant to make us question just how big is too big.

TOM FORD

Haider Ackermann’s first collection for Tom Ford took the best parts of the brand’s late-’90s style—low-slung leather pants, sleek silhouettes, and wraparound sunglasses—and gave them a modern twist. Mostly monochromatic, the looks had an occasional burst of neon or metallic to keep things fun. Ackermann’s signature crisp tailoring was evident, signaling a fresh start for Tom Ford without losing its edgy DNA. Even Tom Ford himself showed up at the end, sealing the moment with a proud ovation.

BALMAIN

Olivier Rousteing surprised everyone by turning down the volume (and the shoulder pads) at Balmain. A wave of oversized knitwear in subdued gray melange wrapped the models while shimmering zebra prints reminded us that Rousteing can’t resist a good flash. Add thigh-high boots, and we’re talking major cozy chic, possibly heralding a new era of “soft glam” for the Balmain Army.

OFF-WHITE

Ib Kamara’s third outing for Off-White came with a fierce twist: rebellious eagles, hazard stripes, and star motifs. Beneath the edgy prints and moto-sports vibe was a unifying message about community. Uniform-inspired pieces—layered jersey, denim, and structured silhouettes—shouted “individuality” but also reminded us that sometimes, it reallyis us against the world.

RABANNE

At UNESCO HQ, Julien Dossena delivered Rabanne with a push-pull of structure versus movement. Swooping faux fur tails, sharp tailoring, and metallic detailing kept things lively. Glossy plastic gabardines layered over delicate lace underscored that modern armor can look equal parts protective and playful, forging a path between tough-girl swagger and flirty elegance.

RICK OWENS

Rick Owens took a half-step back from the heavy spectacle, honing in on what he called “basics.” But in Owens’ world, that translates to jackets lined in more leather, sculptural Dracula collars, and laser-cut chainmail. Iggy Pop roared in the background as these next-level essentials marched by, all of them proving that sometimes a minimalist approach can still blow out all the stops.

MCQUEEN

Over at McQueen, Sean McGirr unleashed a Victorian fever dream of monstrous ruffles, pleated necklines, and face-covering embellishments. Pair that with monochromatic lace tights and dagger-toed boots, and you’ve got a big, theatrical moment that’s somehow still runway-ready. If you want a masterclass in balancing costume with pure couture, this is it.

HERMÈS

Hermès delivered a mostly monochrome collection, ranging from charcoal ash to midnight-black with scarce hits of lime green and beige. Set in a dark, futuristic venue with soft sand floors, the sharp leather wrap skirts, quilted vests, and rigid-cut blazers embodied the brand’s equestrian roots and passion for refined craftsmanship. Outerwear took center stage—goatskin pea coats, silk gabardine bombers, and plush shearling all made appearances—with discreet details like unzip-to-blanket coats and hand-painted marbled prints. Layering was key, using clever tailoring and modular constructions to blend practicality and luxury in that undeniably Hermès way.

BALENCIAGA

Balenciaga’s runway maze was a metaphor for Demna’s design process: typical dress codes turned upside down. Shrunken hoodies, track pants, and a distressed Speedcat collab with PUMA gave sportswear a chaotic spin. Forget predictability—Balenciaga’s about retooling everyday elements into something that borders on the surreal.

VALENTINO

For Alessandro Michele’s second Valentino collection, a converted public bathroom set the stage (yes, really), and 80 looks later, we were wowed by a VANS collab and an electric color palette. No one does flamboyant drama like Michele; the synergy between his maximalist DNA and Valentino’s romantic roots hit a sweet spot that felt raucous, fresh, and undeniably stylish.

COPERNI