In fashion, few legacies echo as strongly as Madam Coco Chanel‘s. Her audacious approach and creative vision birthed some of the most iconic modern-day fashion and beauty products that have evolved into symbols of her namesake Maison. For the Chanel 2023/24 Métiers d’art collection, Virginie Viard honored the pioneering spirit of Madam Chanel and the foundational codes of the Maison.
“Tweed is central to this collection. I thought a lot about Gabrielle Chanel, but I didn’t want to recreate Coco’s look when she was wearing the Duke of Westminster’s jackets. I took my cue from Coco, who brought color to her tweeds. I added a vibrant, pop spirit to them,” Viard explained.
A radiant palette painted the runway in vibrant shades of salmon pink, pumpkin, apple green, mustard, sky blue, red, and rust. In a departure from her signature rock aesthetic, Viard focused on the poetic exploration of emotions, with a subtle nod to the spirit of the sixties. Viard’s commitment to the House codes resonated throughout the collection. From chains at the bottom of the jackets to contrasting inner fabrics and multiple topstitched panels providing freedom of movement, each detail celebrated Gabrielle Chanel’s art of tailoring.
Pleats, feather embellishments, and intricate embroidery, complemented by hats and jeweled buttons from the Métiers d’art resident at le19M, elevated the collection’s appeal. Quirky elements like teapots, vinyl records, and playful flowers injected a sense of whimsy. At the same time, the daring inclusion of black Mary-Jane shoes, jeans, leather, and babydoll nighties highlighted the collection’s versatility.
The Chanel 2023/24 Métiers d’art show was hosted at Thomas Street in Machester. Known for its rich heritage in music, Manchester today is a meeting point for those who identify with it.
“For me, Manchester is the city of music, confides Viard. It incites creation.”
The Chanel 2023/24 Métiers d’art collection unfolded as a visual manifestation of Great Britain’s influence on fashion. Wraparound skirts, miniskirts with godets, Bermuda shorts, shirts, and coat-dresses, all meticulously crafted in tweed, Shetland knitwear, and plush cashmere, took center stage. The cuts, characterized by a fitted silhouette and skirts worn slightly low on the hips, exuded timeless sophistication.
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