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SAINT LAURENT OPENS MEN’S PARIS FASHION WEEK

Anthony Vaccarello's evolving vision for Saint Laurent was put on display on day one of Men's Paris Fashion Week...

Men’s Paris Fashion Week is officially in full swing with Saint Laurent kicking off day one with a sleek, sharp, suave approach to Winter ’23 dressing. Anthony Vaccarello sent out a menswear collection that shied away from defining the gender of the clothes. It was instantly clear within the line-up that the Creative Director has been building on the transformative element of the clothes – creating dramatically attenuated silhouettes that can honestly, be seen on women too. Men and women face no distinction in Vaccarello’s universe, and his evolving vision was translated on a runway, in the rotunda of the Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection.

Whilst art and Saint Laurent have always been complicit since the beginning, Japanese architect Tadao Ando’s radical structure-within-a-structure was the show’s setting for the intimate presentation. Upon first look, there was a sense of bold sophistication with extremely thought out details (think assertive shoulders, big bows and narrow waists).

What continued was a line-up of long, lean and chic silhouettes complete in a restrained colour palette of black, white, camel, navy and silver. Looks consisted of an unexpectedly confident chiffon shirt and hooded knitwear tunics paired with ground-skimming, sweatpants-inspired trousers. Coats are introduced in a new, ample volume with shape and length reconsidered to produce exciting pieces.

Altogether, these pieces reinterpret established brand codes with soft fabrics – including mohair, cashmere, satin and velvet – contrasted with hard-edged textures. Discover the Saint Laurent Men’s Winter ’23 collection below…

ALSO READ: FROM A NEW ERA AT GUCCI TO A CREATIVE DEBUT AT ETRO, HERE ARE THE MENSWEAR SHOWS THAT STOOD OUT.