As if on cue, last week, the Who’s Who of the fashion world and beyond flocked to Milan to witness the latest sartorial runway spectacles for men. From whimsical fantasy-inspired ‘fits and innovative materials to elegantly tailored numbers, the Milan Men’s Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024 did not disappoint.
Here’s a quick recap of our favorite shows form the Milan Men’s Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025.
MOSCHINO BROUGHT WHIMSY TO THE RUNWAY
Last week, Moschino kicked off Milan Men’s Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 with Adrian Appiolaza’s first menswear collection for the brand. Appiolaza’s debut menswear collection was presented along with the Resort 2025 collection for women, injecting the Milan Fashion Week runway with a burst of energy and theatrical flair. This collection playfully depicted the daily lives of urban dwellers as they journeyed through cityscapes, offices, pizzerias, and football games, all while defying the norms of everyday attire.
Genderless pinstriped suits were whimsically adorned with sunnyside-up eggs, while accessories took the form of pizza and watermelon clutches. Illustrative notes pinned to fitted outerwear added a quirky touch, resembling discarded paperwork from a hectic day. Italian pride was woven into the collection, with the country’s flag colors and football motifs enriching knitwear. Silk shirts featured Colosseum-inspired designs, and blazers with gingham accents brought a picnic vibe to the seaside look. Further, models humorously emerged in towel robes with croissant accessories, showcasing Moschino toiletry bags. The grand finale paid homage to 1990s Italian summers with relaxed coveralls, ruffled skirts, and animalistic graphics, capturing the essence of nostalgic countryside daydreams.
FENDI GOES BACK TO SCHOOL
Fendi is taking us back to school with its Spring/Summer 2025 Men’s collection, where classroom classics get a sophisticated twist. The show unfolded in the vast expanse of Superstudio Maxi, transforming the space into a fashion-forward classroom.
Titled ‘Fendi Club,’ the collection featured a mix of polished suiting and a hint of playful rebellion. Key pieces included ribbed knits doubling as shirts, blazers with cropped cuffs, and asymmetric ‘Henley’ tops with peeking vests. Check ties and football-style tops featuring the Fendi logo added to the studious yet stylish vibe. Signature Fendi elements were ever-present, from the iconic ‘Selleria’ stitching on embossed leather outerwear to denim and relaxed cardigans.
DOLCE & GABBANA EVOKES AN ITALIAN SUMMER
Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, aptly named ‘Italian Beauty,’ embodied the carefree spirit of Italian summers. Every item, from bespoke linen jackets to intricately crafted raffia, hand-embroidered coral details, and a fresh array of signature bags, highlighted the exquisite craftsmanship of the Maison.
The show opened with a stunning wicker jacket, reminiscent of classic Italian furniture, reimagined in fine strips of white and black leather for a more wearable yet equally striking effect. This collection marked a departure from the brand’s signature tight tailoring, embracing a more relaxed and summery vibe with sheer polo shirts, lightweight jackets, pleat-front trousers tapered to the ankle, and breezy shirts left open to the waist. Inspired by the 1950s Italian summer, Dolce & Gabbana’s latest offerings exuded a laid-back elegance that perfectly captured the essence of the Dolce Vita.
PRADA MADE US TAKE A “CLOSER” LOOK
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons transformed Milan Fashion Week into an electrifying celebration with the PradaSpring/Summer 2025 collection. Set against the backdrop of a makeshift house-turned-catwalk elevated on stilts, the show was powered by the pulsating beats of techno music, creating a high-energy atmosphere from the get-go.
Aptly titled ‘Closer,’ Prada Spring/Summer 2025 Menswear collection was a clever play on notions of truth and pretense. Prada and Simons played with traditional menswear archetypes, infusing them with imaginative twists. Ingenious printed belts on lightweight trousers, boxy leather jackets, and striking boilersuits were featured prominently. Visors adorned with screen-printed images of party scenes and idyllic landscapes added a whimsical touch. Delicate details on menswear, like strong chest pleats and button-replaced belt loops, stood out up close but vanished at a distance. Ultra-cropped workwear jackets and brightly-hued knitwear with signature triangular cutouts showcased their innovative design ethos.
JW ANDERSON CELEBRATES “REAL SLEEP”
For his Spring/Summer 2025 Menswear collection under his eponymous label, Jonathan Anderson explored the concept of “Real Sleep.” The collection showcased JW Anderson’s signature oversized and exaggerated silhouettes, blending drama with a touch of whimsy. The runway featured snug quilted duvet coats and knitwear, embracing a theme of comfort and coziness. The show space, adorned with twinkling lightbulbs, set the perfect tone for the dreamy, padded silhouettes that followed.
The collection felt like a playful exploration of slumber and dreams, featuring massive waffle coats reminiscent of vintage knit blankets, silky pillow-like textures, and plush details. Anderson’s quirky creativity shone through with items like comfy cardigans and sweater dresses designed to resemble wearable houses, complete with windows and doors.
EMPORIO ARMANI MARRIED NATURE AND FASHION
Giorgio Armani transported his audience to a serene countryside at Milan Fashion Week with the Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2025 Menswear collection. Set against bucolic projections of lavender fields and wild horses at Teatro Armani, the collection, titled ‘Freedom in Nature,’ exuded a spirit of adventure and elegance. Armani masterfully blended equestrian and safari themes with the brand’s signature refined tailoring.
The collection featured shirtless fieldmen, collarless military jackets, and voluminous tunics, all in earthy and lavender tones. Heavy-duty footwear complemented the rugged yet sophisticated looks, emphasizing a seamless blend of nature and style. With over 80 ensembles on display, Armani showcased his timeless ability to innovate while staying true to the brand’s core aesthetic, offering a fresh perspective on modern masculinity infused with the freedom of the great outdoors.
GUCCI CELEBRATED FREEDOM
Sabato De Sarno’s sophomore collection for Gucci blended surf culture with high fashion in a way only Gucci can. The runway, flooded with abstract surfer prints, colorful cabana shirts, and hibiscus and dolphin motifs, showcased a playful yet sophisticated take on summer. De Sarno’s vision is a true “ode to freedom,” liberating the male silhouette with see-through polos that dare to reveal and shorts so short they put legs on full display.
The collection merged Gucci’s classic elements with bold new statements: think bright long-leather coats, ‘Horsebit’ boots, and leather accessories in electrifying acid greens, neon oranges, and the Gucci ‘Rosso’ red. The man-romper is back, reimagined with De Sarno’s flair, alongside sashaying fringe tops, iridescent knitwear, and beach shirts adorned with striking patterns. Sharp outerwear in charming seasonal hues added a layer of elegance to the breezy, laid-back vibe.
Accessories were, as always, a highlight. Wraparound sunglasses snugged models’ heads, while patent leather bags swayed with every stride. Footwear was a delightful mix of styles, from sleek point-toe ‘Chelsea’ boots to chunky running sneakers and beachy slip-ons, rounding off a collection that celebrates both freedom and the spirit of adventure.
ZEGNA COMMITS TO SUSTAINABILITY
Milan Fashion Week witnessed Alessandro Sartori’s masterful exploration of silhouette and craftsmanship for Zegna‘s Summer 2025 collection. The brand celebrated. The collection celebrated the unique characteristics of Oasi Lino fibers, underscoring its commitment to sustainability. With plans to certify Oasi Lino fibers as 100% traceable from 2024 onwards, the collection not only exemplifies meticulous craftsmanship but also highlights Zegna’s pioneering efforts in a responsible fashion. Setting aside conventional norms, Sartori harmonized soft silhouettes with precise tailoring, creating a universe where elegance meets practicality.
Each piece, meticulously designed from materials like canvas, camel hair, raw linen, and Japanese cotton, reflected a blend of lived-in comfort and structured refinement. What set this collection apart was Sartori’s innovative approach to fit—trousers with deeper pockets for casual ease, jackets that were unstructured yet impeccably tailored, and a deliberate choice to forego double linings, signaling a fresh direction for Zegna.
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