Every cloud has a silver lining, they say, and this could not be truer in the case of the Celine Men’s Summer 2024 show, which faced an unexpected cancellation earlier this. However, Hedi Slimane, the creative force behind Celine, kept this setback from deterring his artistic vision. Originally scheduled to take place at La Gaîté Lyrique in Paris in July 2023, the Celine Men’s Summer 2024 collection was unveiled in the form of stunning visuals woven into a short film.
Shot between the iconic landscapes of Paris and the glamourous Monaco, Slimane captured scenes at La Gaîté Lyrique, Le Grand Rex, and the Monte-Carlo Opera Garnier. The film features the graceful classical ballet dancer Laurids Seidel, adding a poetic touch to the collection that was meant to be showcased on the runway.
Slimane’s connection with the arts traces back to the early 2000s when he documented the burgeoning art scene in New York. Names like Dan Colen, Terence Koh, Nate Lowman, and Dash Snow were prominent figures in this movement. Fast forward to 2023, and Slimane pays homage to this generation by collaborating with Dash Snow’s estate, selecting artworks from the artist’s archive for the ‘Delusional DayDream’ collection.
The collection’s inspiration is a seamless fusion of Parisian sophistication and New York edge. Couture bustiers, adorned with satin bows reminiscent of the 17th-century French court, take center stage. The wide satin command sashes, some intricately embroidered with gold, harken back to the grandeur of royal portraits by Pierre Mignard.
The signature ‘Le Tailleur’ is omnipresent, echoing Slimane’s early days at Dior Homme with its sharp silhouettes. Exclusive fabrics, meticulously assembled on vintage looms, elevate the craftsmanship of each piece. Slimane revisits his iconic skinny black ties on white shirts, featuring the distinctive ‘5’ collar, a nod to his design heritage.
The collection introduces a revival of glossy effects from the early 2000s, showcasing Slimane’s keen eye for timeless fashion trends. The low-rise pants, tapered and elongated by a 5-inch heel, nod to the designer’s groundbreaking influence in 2005. Plunged lambskin jeans with a slight flare add a contemporary twist.
Delving into the heart of the collection, we find a poignant connection to the late Dash Snow, whose impactful artistry defined a distinct chapter in American history. Works from Snow’s archive, carefully curated for this showcase, include collages, Polaroids, and a compelling zine cover.
As the runway show video, titled ‘Delusional DayDream,’ was unveiled, it became clear that Slimane’s creative genius knows no bounds. From film to photography, casting to collection, styling to set design – every element of this extraordinary production bears the unmistakable imprint of Slimane’s artistic vision.
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