Luxury vacations and high fashion go hand in hand but throw in The White Lotus, and suddenly, things get a little more…interesting. The hit HBO series has already given us scandalous storylines, painfully self-aware satire, and enough stunning resort wear to inspire our vacation Pinterest boards. Now, H&M is bringing that effortlessly glamorous, slightly unhinged vacation aesthetic straight to our suitcases with a collection that’s equal parts breezy, bold, and ready for its ownplot twist.
But how did this collaboration come to life? And what makes the White Lotus wardrobe so instantly iconic? We sat down with Ann-Sofie Johansson, H&M’s Creative Advisor, and Alex Bovaird, the mastermind costume designer behind the show, to talk about statement kaftans, high-octane holiday dressing, and the art of packing like you’re the main character.
HOW DID THIS COLLABORATION COME ABOUT?
Ann-Sofie: It was a proposal from HBO, and we jumped at it because we thought, who doesn’t love The White Lotus? To do a collection together is to tap into a cultural moment. Also, it meant we could create a glamorous and dreamy resort collection.
WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT THE SHOW?
Ann-Sofie: There’s a thrilling awkwardness you feel. It’s not bad, but rather intriguingly uncomfortable, and you can’t stop watching it. It captures all the quirkiness of being human. It’s intriguing. It makes you think, and it’s very entertaining.
ALEX, TO SET THINGS UP, HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE DIRECTION AND THE MOOD OF THE WARDROBE FOR THE THIRD SEASON OF THE WHITE LOTUS?
Alex: Well, I think we’ve established with the series this concept that when you’re going on a White Lotus vacation, you are purposefully packing and, therefore, dressing with some deliberation and hope. It is elevated vacation dressing and somewhat aspirational.
This season, the characters present a version of who they want to be. It’s a little freer and more fun, more elaborate. This time, we had the heat of Southeast Asia and quite a specific spa location, which also influenced the wardrobe. There’s sometimes a need to be covered up with long-sleeved shirts or flowing kaftans, and there’s a need for hats. The story has a sprinkling of darkness, mystery, and danger, too, so it’s fun to add that to the clothing but subtly. For instance, a sophisticated black dress or a moody outfit.
DOES THE CULTURE OF THE LOCATION INFLUENCE THE WARDROBE?
Alex: I did a lot of shopping in Bangkok, but I brought pieces from California with me as well because most of these characters are Americans traveling abroad. So, they packed their luggage in America. I tried to incorporate the motifs of Thailand, so there are prints with animals. It’s lush and jungle-like, and there are many bright colors: greens and bold citrus.
HOW DO YOU USE WARDROBE TO CREATE CHARACTERS?
Alex: As a costume designer, you think about what looks good and what’s going to flatter this person, but also who they are through their clothes, where they come from, and what they are trying to say. How are they feeling? There is also a sense of time, place, decorum, and all sorts of psychological elements that need to come into play.
ANN-SOFIE, WHAT HAVE YOU OBSERVED ABOUT THE POWER OF FASHION ON THE SCREEN?
Ann-Sofie: If you think of the influence of Sex and the City, for example, it can be groundbreaking. As a designer, you must be very curious and open to what is happening in popular culture.
HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE SPIRIT OF THE COLLECTION OVERALL?
Ann-Sofie: We’re selling a dream of that perfect holiday moment. It doesn’t matter where you go, but you know how you want it to be. That kind of dreaminess is always a big part of fashion—you also want it. It’s very aspirational.
It’s also glamorous; there’s a lot of volume and beautiful prints, and it’s very colorful. It captures that feeling of being on holiday when people might be slightly more daring. I think you can be a different persona on a holiday, and you communicate that in the way you dress. There’s that versatility, too, so you can pack light. The collection works for the beach, but you can easily style it for the evening if you want to. It’s the perfect summer holiday wardrobe.
ALEX, TELL US ABOUT THIS COLLECTION.
Alex: I love that all these pieces can be worn all day. You could just throw one on to go to breakfast or the pool, or you could dress it up with lots of bling and wear it to dinner. There’s something for everyone; the shorter crochet pieces and lace dresses are fresh and young. Then, a sexy little black dress is an absolute go-to when you’re on vacation.
Overall, the collection incorporates the jungle environment and the bright White Lotus colors. I used a lot of pink in every season of The White Lotus. I think it is my favorite color. I just love pink against all the jungle. There are also several shades of green, and the citrus fruits were an inspiration, along with some gold and glitz that signify a stylish and luxurious hotel.
WHAT ARE SOME OF THE PIECES THAT STOOD OUT FOR YOU?
Ann-Sofie: The glamorous long dresses and kaftans with volumes of fabric that move when you do. I think if you wear something like that, you will be noticed, and at the same time, it’ll be comfortable and effortless.
Alex: We have this little catchphrase on The White Lotus: “Nothing’s too much for The White Lotus!” So, I’m drawn more to the bold patterns and the more sumptuous, billowing pieces: the halter-neck dress with the black-and-white elephant print, that flowy kaftan with ruffles, and the one in gorgeous, juicy shades of purple. I would wear those green frill trouser flares and the matching oversized shirt. For the classic look, there are a couple of black styles that can be accessorized for a swanky dinner or left simple.
ALEX, YOUR PROCESS USUALLY INVOLVES BUYING EXISTING ITEMS AND BUILDING A WARDROBE, SO HOW WAS IT TO CREATE AND DESIGN SOMETHING ENTIRELY NEW?
Alex: I am fortunate to have found this fantastic job. I love lining up the colors and creating these ensembles, but this was different. We tried to infuse the essence of the show and the look of high-end, high-octane resort wear into a cohesive vacation capsule. Although there are elements of the different characters in the collection, it’s imagining that it’s all going in one person’s suitcase. It was pulling all the elements together for a fun, sexy, and showbiz feeling.
ANN-SOFIE, WHAT WAS IT LIKE WORKING WITH ALEX?
Ann-Sofie: Alex had the most fantastic mood boards for the setting, interiors, and overall inspiration. We could see how she used the wardrobe to build the different characters. Each has a particular style, which makes the collection easy to create.
HOW DO YOU SEE IT FITTING WITHIN THE SEASONAL IN-STORE MIX?
Ann-Sofie: By February, that longing for lightness and spring and summer sets in, and you start to plan what you will wear. We can plan and dream again.
Launching on February 20, this collection is bound to fly off the shelves, because who wouldn’t want to dress like they’re starring in their own luxury getaway (minus the White Lotus levels of drama, of course)?
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