SOME WERE ‘HAUTE’, SOME WERE NOT THIS FW24/25 COUTURE SEASON.

Schiaparelli tho...
This season's haute couture collections showcased a spectrum of styles, from the breathtakingly 'haute' to the surprisingly lackluster. While some designers soared with innovations and elegance, others fell short, failing to capture the essence of true haute couture. Let's delve into the contrasting worlds of high fashion where excellence meets...what's 'not so excellent' on the runway.

IT’S A COUTURE CRESCENDO AND CHANEL MIXES OPERA WITH FASHION FOR SOME DRAMA.

This, is your ticket to explore the artistry of CHANEL’s Haute Couture ateliers at 31, rue Cambon, near the Palais Garnier, where over 150 skilled artisans meticulously craft each piece. Feathers, tassels, cabochons, and embroidered flowers intertwine with sumptuous materials like lacquered jersey and silky velvet, creating garments that exude elegance with every rustle.

From ethereal volumes to billowing sleeves and intricately pleated flounces, each garment embodies a romantic reinterpretation of CHANEL’s iconic aesthetic. Imagine a burgundy tweed suit with box pleats, a black corduroy tuxedo paired with an embroidered plastron blouse, or a black feather-adorned jacket complementing a long culotte suit. These pieces, alongside capes, coats, and evening gowns, evoke a modern stage tradition and the artistry of pageantry, crafted by the talented team at CHANEL’s ateliers.

AT BALENCIAGA, YOUR EVERYDAY TEE GOES LUXE CHIC.

Decades since its closure in 1968, Cristóbal Balenciaga’s legacy endures with radical creations like balloon hems and sack dresses that defined haute couture runways. A simple T-shirt transforms into luxury with silk scuba satin lining, enhancing its stiff, bulbous silhouette. Oil hand-painted drawings of rebellious rockers adorn tops, while flannel shirts feature silk tuffetage embroidery. Jackets tied around the waist are seamlessly integrated with trousers as one piece. Demna’s subtle twist on everyday pieces with fine textiles and avant-garde shapes elevates them to Balenciaga’s couture realm.

VALLI TAKES US TO INDIA.

Giambattista Valli’s soul finds solace in India, reflected in his latest Haute Couture collection. Inspired by Jaipur’s “pink healing aura” and the tranquil Suryagarh gardens, Valli seeks to evoke “supreme bien être”, ultimate well-being.

But this collection transcends literal Indian motifs. Backstage, Valli describes it as a “surreal conversation” between Botticelli’s languid grace in Primavera and the meticulous detail of Mughal miniatures. This artistic exchange mirrors the historical collaboration between Florentine artisans and their Indian counterparts during the Taj Mahal’s construction.

IRIS VAN HERPEN: WEARABLE ART OR HANGING MASTERPIECE?

During Paris Haute Couture Week, Iris Van Herpen unveils her Fall Winter 24 Couture Collection, blending her artistic reverence with fashion expertise. Inspired by her retrospective at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, titled “Sculpting the Senses,” which spans 16 groundbreaking years of her work, Van Herpen acknowledges a creative evolution. Embracing her childhood influences in sculpture, painting, and classical dance training, she introduces a new dimension to her innovative portfolio.

DANIEL ROSEBERRY’S COUTUE COLLECTION FOR SCHIAPARELLI EMBRACES REBIRTH IN A NEW WAY.

Daniel Roseberry, Schiaparelli’s creative director, draws inspiration from Elsa Schiaparelli’s legacy of reinvention, particularly her iconic feathered ensemble honoring Anna Pavlova. The fall/winter 2024 couture collection in Paris features nods to archival pieces and vintage shoe lines, reimagined into striking headpieces and gown necklines. With Doja Cat and Kylie Jenner among the front-row attendees sporting avant-garde looks, this collection ignites fashion’s fervor with modern flair.

THOM BROWNE’S COUTURE ALCHEMY: MUSLIN MEETS RUNWAY MAGIC.

Enter the enchanting world of Thom Browne’s haute couture with the Fall/Winter 2024 collection. This season, muslin, an artisan fabric, undergoes a stunning transformation into exquisite runway pieces, showcasing Thom Browne’s mastery of intricate techniques. Each look is a testament to the brand’s exceptional talent for deconstructing and reimagining fashion with unparalleled craftsmanship.

FASHION MEETS THE ABSURD FOR VIKTOR & ROLF’S GEOMETRIC COUTURE.

For their Fall/Winter 2024 collection, aptly titled ‘Haute Absurdism,’ the mononymous couturiers delve into intentional abstraction. Over 23 looks, they contour figures to discomfort, sculpt shapes with unfathomable proportions, and amp up contrast and saturation levels. Drawing inspiration from the eponymous artistic movement and their own history of once-preposterous designs—think iconic duvet gowns from Fall/Winter 2005—the collection resonates with a generation of ‘goblin’ girls and Ottessa Mosfegh’s ‘My Year Of Rest And Relaxation’ acolytes.”

ALSO READ: GAME-DAY GLAM: HOW TO SCORE BIG WITH TEAM SPIRIT AND STYLE.