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MORE THAN MEETS THE EYE: THE MEANING AND SENTIMENTALITY BEHIND THE OPULENT JEWELLERY AT THE AMBANI WEDDING.

WRITTEN BY: JESSY A. - FOUNDER OF THE JEWELLERY PENTHOUSE.
Coining the term “brick emeralds” to describe the gargantuan gemstones witnessed at Anant Ambani and Radhika Merchant’s pre-wedding festivities (because the traditional “carat” would not suffice) is only a mere indication of the opulence laced within the recent three-day nuptials. Still, there is more to the Ambani family’s jewellery than meets the eye – sentimental, hidden and celebratory meaning imbued within each piece. “There are looks – dresses and jewellery, which I have planned on with my mum and sister since I was a little girl; I haven’t paid much attention to trends,” reflects Radhika in a recent Vogue interview. We explore, the hidden details behind a selection of the jewellery that bid the Ambani vault adieu for a few nights of glamour.

The layered Pearl, Emerald and Diamond Wedding Necklaces worn by Radhika  Merchant – honouring familial bond and Indian heritage

Arguably, the piece that stole the show – Radhika’s wedding necklace is in fact a curation of a familial heirloom combined with a newer bespoke piece by Mumbai-based third generation jeweller Nisha Mehta of Nisha M. An antique pearl choker would serve as the anchor of her layered necklaces, “I wore the same necklace my sister and aunts wore at their weddings, and I truly believe it gave me a special strength and blessing,” explains the newlywed in an interview with Vogue. Draped in five strands of polki (uncut diamonds), with two jaw-dropping Zambian emeralds as the focal point of the necklace, the dancing emerald droplets beneath the central motif would complete her ethereal aesthetic. The custom wedding piece was a gift from the bride’s mother Shaila Merchant – allowing Radhika to keep her familial bond close to the heart (metaphorically and literally).

The Life-like Bespoke Lion Brooch worn by Anant Ambani – an homage to Vantara and a signifier of humility

Anant Ambani’s extensive brooch collection, with a number of pieces featuring animal motifs, just received a newcomer – a life-like lion sitting on a pedestal-reminiscent series of Asscher cut diamonds. To achieve the aesthetic of a textured mane, designer Lorraine Schwartz, intricately set yellow diamonds alongside vibrant green emeralds for the eyes. Perhaps most startling of all, is the floating 50 carat oval cut diamond that is suspended from an equally exquisite pear cut diamond floating from the Lion’s clenching canines. The motif pays tribute to Anant’s unwavering commitment to wildlife conservation through Vantara, the impressive 3,000 acre animal rescue and rehabilitation center established by the groom, and is a symbol of humility.

The Wedding Band with a Secret Diamond Interior worn by Radhika Merchant – an ode to the couple’s love

Wedding bands, bridal jewellery’s underdog especially when compared to the grandeur of diamond studded eternity and engagement rings, are traditionally characterised by a  plain gold ring – not in the case of Radhika Merchant however. The bride paid a stunning tribute to her, now husband, Anant Ambani with the reverse of the ring facing inwards set with pavé diamonds reading the initials “R” and “A” enveloping a heart shape diamond. Only viewed by the wearer as she catches the occasional glimpse of the initials at the palm of her hand – the precious nature of the message lies in its covert nature emanating personal delight.

The Emerald and Diamond Suite worn by Nita Ambani – representing, growth, fortune and prosperity

The Ambani’s ever elegant matriarch, Nita, has possibly single-handedly reinstated the position of emeralds in bridal jewellery, redefining the contemporary wedding aesthetic from a traditionally diamond-centric appeal. Unlike the pre-wedding festivities where Mrs. Ambani infamously showcased her double “brick emerald” collier featuring emerald cuts, her pear and oval counterparts of the green gemstone enjoyed the limelight during the nuptials for a change. The phenomenal gemstones were curated from the connoisseur’s personal collection as part of the piece conjured by the revered jewellery designer Viren Bhagat. Allegedly first sourced from Egypt’s Cleopatra mines, the verdant gemstone is considered to embody “the green of growing things” and is a symbol of prosperity and fortune – fit for new beginnings and the festivities.

The multicoloured Diamond “Garden of Love” Necklace worn by Isha Ambani – a celebration of love

The bespoke Kantilal Chhotalal’s creation features diamonds sourced from non-other than Nita Ambani’s unparalleled collection of the rarest coloured diamonds including pink, blue, green and orange variations (jewellery’s ultimate if you know you know) where the price per carat compared to white diamonds (assuming the remaining 4Cs are maintained) is astronomical. The design portrays a scenic botanical masterpiece encapsulating floral motifs featuring rose cuts and portrait cuts for a hyper realistic feel, as well as fluttering butterflies. The piece was handcrafted over 4,000 hours by artisans and prominently showcases Isha’s favoured diamond shape and symbol of love – heart cuts.

The Traditional Gold Suite worn by Shloka Ambani – commemorating lineage

In a rare diamond-free appearance, Shloka pairs an incredible gold suite portraying bauble-like features throughout, providing the piece with a statement feel and a dynamic touch. The deeply sentimental heirloom belonged to her loving grandmother. “Feeling all the feels because we styled this look using Nani’s [grandmother’s] jewellery! Love when there’s a blend of tradition and fashion!” explains Diya Mehta Jatia, Shloka’s sister and stylist.

The multi-cut Diamond Suite worn by Shloka Ambani – encapsulating “the eternal flame of love”

Notorious for her admiration of statement pieces Shloka Ambani’s, ear jewellery, seemingly defied gravity given the perching diamonds’ sheer size. Mirroring a radiating aesthetic between alternating rows of pear, round and heart cut diamonds, both Shloka’s collier and stunning earring/ear cuff set are, yet again, a testament to Kantilal Chhotalal’s incredible craftsmanship. The center piece of the collier was carefully curated from the family’s exquisite gemstone collection – a breath-taking heart cut diamond. The designer notes, the “cascading heart and round solitaire cuff earrings, and a heart-shaped maang tikka accentuated with pear diamonds completes this ode to love’s eternal flame.”

ALSO READ: HIGH JEWELLERY’S TOP 5 RELEASES IN 2024 – RECONCILING TIMELY VS. TIMELESS DESIGN.