The London look: 10 key takeaways from LFW A/W’20

ICYMI: A cheat sheet guide to the standout looks from London Fashion Week (so far)...

It seems fitting that a storm would hit this London Fashion Week. Whilst editors, street stylers and buyers bemoaned the weather (umbrella? Useless. Makeup? Gone in 60 seconds. Outfit plans? Totally scrapped), heavy winds served as a preface to the catwalk collections; a cocktail of defiant energy, sharp contrasts and unapologetic rebellion.

1 | MATTY BOVANโ€™S FUTURAMA

Matty Bovanโ€™s shows are always a delightful pick โ€™nโ€™ mix of fantasy and reality, straddling good and bad taste. For autumn/winter 2020, the London Fashion Week wunderkind presented a literal out-of-body experience. Featuring a wild display of headdresses (made by Stephen Jones) which acted as curtains and clothes that are more aptly described as fashion sculptures. According to show notes: โ€œThe Englishness of his previous collections has been dialled down in favour of recontextualising clothes while staring outside of yourself.โ€ A distorted babydoll dress accessorised with a towering changing room structure? A thousand times yes.

2 | RICHARD QUINNโ€™S FASHION FANTASY

Richard Quinnโ€™s show was fashion spectacle at its finest. From the performance (Welsh singer-songwriter Hannah Grace) to the next-level interiors (blush pink carpet, grand chandelier, piano and an explosion of hydrangeas lining the walls). And thatโ€™s before we start talking about the clothes. (Described as an ode to โ€œLondon working class couture.โ€) True to his trademark, there was a riot of grin-and-wear it gowns and print, though one of our favourite looks was actually a bejewelled jacket with the words โ€œGOD SAVE THE QUINNโ€ emblazoned on the back.

3 | 16 ARLINGTONโ€™S LEATHER LOVE-IN

Just a couple of years on the London Fashion Week calendar and 16Arlington is fast becoming one of the hottest labels to watch; known for its mixture of high-drama decadence, sinister sensuality and ladylike-dressing. As seen in past collections, ruffles, un-done drapery, voluminous shapes, long evening gowns and feather detailing featured heavily. But there was also a tougher, more grown-up edge this season, with models โ€“ including actor-writer-director Lena Dunham making her LFW debut โ€“ swathed in a stream of buttery-soft leather looks.

4 | HALPERNโ€™S ODE TO SEVENTIES SUPREME

Studio 54-worthy silhouettes, high-octane bustiers, jumpsuits dripping in crystals, sequin-embellished mini dresses. Itโ€™s hard not to fall truly, madly, deeply in love with Michael Halpernโ€™s disco glamour. For the king of blingโ€™s latest collection, held at Londonโ€™s Old Bailey (โ€œwhere all walks of society are equal under the lawโ€) he sought to celebrate the contrast between the โ€œbourgeoisie and the rebel.โ€ There was a distinct dress up feel this season; whether that be shocking pink crรชpe satin dress or a purposely OTT rainbow coloured jacquard cape. Juxtaposed next to a more relaxed all-denim look (a preview to Halpernโ€™s newly announced collaboration with Los Angeles-based label J Brand).

5 | ROLAND MOURETโ€™S POWER DRESSING

David Bowieโ€™s Golden Years was an appropriate soundscape for Roland Mouretโ€™s 80s-inspired AW20 collection, held inside the National Theatre. Think wide-shouldered blazers, Princess Diana-style blow-dries and brooches galore (made from recycling broken pieces from the sculptor James Websterโ€™s last exhibition, Martyrs). โ€œThis season, values [social change, the value of collaboration, and creating a collection with longevity] over trends shape my collection,โ€ Mouret says. Fantastique.

6 | SHRIMPSโ€™ ROYAL FLUSH

Regal inflections have been making the rounds this season, from elbow gloves to tiaras. Shrimpsโ€™ muse wasnโ€™t hard to miss; a clear celebration of The Queenโ€™s closet, in all its glory. Her Majestyโ€™s wardrobe gets Hannah Weiland-ified; see the British designerโ€™s contemporary take on the classic ball gown (that fuchsia dress!), refined draped necklines, faux fur-trimmed hats, royal blue faux sheepskin coats (we want all the coats, actually), and drawing on the HRHโ€™s love of all things bright and beautiful.

7 | VICTORIA BECKHAMโ€™S GENTLE REBELLION

The VB muse for AW20? Just google 1960s โ€˜Itโ€™ girl, model and David Bailey muse, Penelope Tree. This season, the designer offered up a spirited collage of tight over-the-knee boots, worn with velvet overcoats, culottes, collared shirts, lingerie-as-outerwear and tweed skirts. โ€œI was thinking about the tension between refinement and rebellion,โ€ Beckham said. โ€œI was inspired by different ideas of women โ€” different characters, different moments and different attitudes โ€” but with no restrictions. The overriding sentiment that we don’t have to follow the rules. We can follow our instincts. Be spirited.โ€

8 | PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZIโ€™S NEW UNIFORM

Design duo Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi are masters at making florals look punk. Whilst flowery accents, a mรฉlange of prints and ruffled dresses were incorporated into the collection, the brand also introduced masculine tailoring and Working Girl-esque three-piece tweed suits.

9 | BURBERRY’S CHECK MATES

Burberryโ€™s AW20 runway remixed Burberryโ€™s classic colour palettes (khaki, beige and green) with a 90s flair. Titled โ€˜Memoriesโ€™, the collection is described as an โ€œintimate reflection of Riccardo Tisciโ€™s personal archive โ€“ a collection inspired by his memories of travel and discovery that have informed him as a designer.โ€ The result? A glorious display of grungy plaid (tartan bralette, anyone?) deconstructed tailoring and luxe sportswear.

10 | JW ANDERSON’S SIZEABLE CREATIONS

Balloon shaped bags, supersized outerwear, cocoon-shaped eveningwear. J Dub’s latest collection spoke volumes, literally. The key takeaway? More is more to perk up your winter wardrobe.

First published on Buro247.com.

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