It seems fitting that a storm would hit this London Fashion Week. Whilst editors, street stylers and buyers bemoaned the weather (umbrella? Useless. Makeup? Gone in 60 seconds. Outfit plans? Totally scrapped), heavy winds served as a preface to the catwalk collections; a cocktail of defiant energy, sharp contrasts and unapologetic rebellion.
1 | MATTY BOVANโS FUTURAMA

Matty Bovanโs shows are always a delightful pick โnโ mix of fantasy and reality, straddling good and bad taste. For autumn/winter 2020, the London Fashion Week wunderkind presented a literal out-of-body experience. Featuring a wild display of headdresses (made by Stephen Jones) which acted as curtains and clothes that are more aptly described as fashion sculptures. According to show notes: โThe Englishness of his previous collections has been dialled down in favour of recontextualising clothes while staring outside of yourself.โ A distorted babydoll dress accessorised with a towering changing room structure? A thousand times yes.
2 | RICHARD QUINNโS FASHION FANTASY

Richard Quinnโs show was fashion spectacle at its finest. From the performance (Welsh singer-songwriter Hannah Grace) to the next-level interiors (blush pink carpet, grand chandelier, piano and an explosion of hydrangeas lining the walls). And thatโs before we start talking about the clothes. (Described as an ode to โLondon working class couture.โ) True to his trademark, there was a riot of grin-and-wear it gowns and print, though one of our favourite looks was actually a bejewelled jacket with the words โGOD SAVE THE QUINNโ emblazoned on the back.
3 | 16 ARLINGTONโS LEATHER LOVE-IN

Just a couple of years on the London Fashion Week calendar and 16Arlington is fast becoming one of the hottest labels to watch; known for its mixture of high-drama decadence, sinister sensuality and ladylike-dressing. As seen in past collections, ruffles, un-done drapery, voluminous shapes, long evening gowns and feather detailing featured heavily. But there was also a tougher, more grown-up edge this season, with models โ including actor-writer-director Lena Dunham making her LFW debut โ swathed in a stream of buttery-soft leather looks.
4 | HALPERNโS ODE TO SEVENTIES SUPREME

Studio 54-worthy silhouettes, high-octane bustiers, jumpsuits dripping in crystals, sequin-embellished mini dresses. Itโs hard not to fall truly, madly, deeply in love with Michael Halpernโs disco glamour. For the king of blingโs latest collection, held at Londonโs Old Bailey (โwhere all walks of society are equal under the lawโ) he sought to celebrate the contrast between the โbourgeoisie and the rebel.โ There was a distinct dress up feel this season; whether that be shocking pink crรชpe satin dress or a purposely OTT rainbow coloured jacquard cape. Juxtaposed next to a more relaxed all-denim look (a preview to Halpernโs newly announced collaboration with Los Angeles-based label J Brand).
5 | ROLAND MOURETโS POWER DRESSING

David Bowieโs Golden Years was an appropriate soundscape for Roland Mouretโs 80s-inspired AW20 collection, held inside the National Theatre. Think wide-shouldered blazers, Princess Diana-style blow-dries and brooches galore (made from recycling broken pieces from the sculptor James Websterโs last exhibition, Martyrs). โThis season, values [social change, the value of collaboration, and creating a collection with longevity] over trends shape my collection,โ Mouret says. Fantastique.
6 | SHRIMPSโ ROYAL FLUSH

Regal inflections have been making the rounds this season, from elbow gloves to tiaras. Shrimpsโ muse wasnโt hard to miss; a clear celebration of The Queenโs closet, in all its glory. Her Majestyโs wardrobe gets Hannah Weiland-ified; see the British designerโs contemporary take on the classic ball gown (that fuchsia dress!), refined draped necklines, faux fur-trimmed hats, royal blue faux sheepskin coats (we want all the coats, actually), and drawing on the HRHโs love of all things bright and beautiful.
7 | VICTORIA BECKHAMโS GENTLE REBELLION

The VB muse for AW20? Just google 1960s โItโ girl, model and David Bailey muse, Penelope Tree. This season, the designer offered up a spirited collage of tight over-the-knee boots, worn with velvet overcoats, culottes, collared shirts, lingerie-as-outerwear and tweed skirts. โI was thinking about the tension between refinement and rebellion,โ Beckham said. โI was inspired by different ideas of women โ different characters, different moments and different attitudes โ but with no restrictions. The overriding sentiment that we don’t have to follow the rules. We can follow our instincts. Be spirited.โ
8 | PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZIโS NEW UNIFORM

Design duo Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi are masters at making florals look punk. Whilst flowery accents, a mรฉlange of prints and ruffled dresses were incorporated into the collection, the brand also introduced masculine tailoring and Working Girl-esque three-piece tweed suits.
9 | BURBERRY’S CHECK MATES

Burberryโs AW20 runway remixed Burberryโs classic colour palettes (khaki, beige and green) with a 90s flair. Titled โMemoriesโ, the collection is described as an โintimate reflection of Riccardo Tisciโs personal archive โ a collection inspired by his memories of travel and discovery that have informed him as a designer.โ The result? A glorious display of grungy plaid (tartan bralette, anyone?) deconstructed tailoring and luxe sportswear.
10 | JW ANDERSON’S SIZEABLE CREATIONS

Balloon shaped bags, supersized outerwear, cocoon-shaped eveningwear. J Dub’s latest collection spoke volumes, literally. The key takeaway? More is more to perk up your winter wardrobe.
First published on Buro247.com.
Now, find out where you can watch the Gucci show live from Milan Fashion Week tonight.