London Fashion Week is back on the global radar. With Laura Weir taking the helm at the British Fashion Council, the mood is electric: participation fees waived, more international guests flown in, and a renewed sense of purpose in the air. “Fashion is not simply product. It is cultural commentary. It is craft. It is the story of who we are and where we are headed,” Weir declared in her opening speech, positioning LFW as more than a showcase of clothes, but as fashion’s most magnetic stage of excellence, brimming with energy, eclectic style, and unforgettable moments. Here are the key trends we spotted on the runways.
A TRIBUTE TO MARIE-ANTOINETTE!
With the V&A staging a headliner exhibition dedicated to Marie-Antoinette’s style (until March 22, 2026), London designers paid tribute to the last queen consort of France with crinolines, bustles and panniers, an ode to an era when dresses were designed for volume. Simone Rocha, in her playful and provocative collection exploring the passage from adolescence to womanhood, integrated crinoline structures into ballgowns and skirts. Some were visible through transparent fabrics, as if to suggest that one can reveal more if one wishes — after all, we are no longer bound by the 18th century. For his 20th anniversary collection, Erdem Moralıoğlu turned to Hélène Smith, the 19th-century medium who believed she had lived other lives, including that of a French courtier – thus the pictures of Marie-Antoinette and her style all over his mood board backstage. He created hourglass mini-dresses that could be worn today if she were to time-travel, and even a shirt supported by crinoline structure.
Yuhan Wang also nodded to crinoline in her Mulholland Drive-inspired collection, as did Toga with a series of trailblazing gowns hovering between midi and maxi lengths, their subtle structures giving them shape while remaining endlessly modern. Dilara Findikoglu added exquisite corsetry to her déchiré runway looks (the cherry dress was a standout), while Chopova Lowena experimented with volume for their finale.
For Spring/Summer 2026, Roksanda drew inspiration from sculptor Barbara Hepworth: garments deconstructed with slashing, folding, and reduction techniques, echoing Hepworth’s cut-outs and explorations of negative space. Architectural silhouettes formed as the industrial harmonised with the organic. Elsewhere, Richard Quinn employed crinolines in his tribute to British ladies’ elegance, while Patrick McDowell, recipient of the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design, also embraced the form.
THE LONDONERS.
What is London style all about? Aaron Esh, in his tribute to the capital, delivered a collection infused with energy and quintessential sartorial elements of how his crowd dresses: leather trousers, skinny jeans, floating silk dresses, trenchcoats, baseball hats and crisp blue shirts With Katy England styling, it recalled how we dressed 15 years ago, and why it still matters today. Denzil Patrick carried a similar message. The duo paid homage to their South London roots with a lookbook featuring friends, family, and the designers themselves, referencing local culture with boxing gear, teddy boy codes, and intricate pearl-button embroideries. And then, perhaps, London is still about boundless imagination, the spirit of Galliano and McQueen, two of fashion’s most rebellious talents. Paolo Carzana proved it once again with a blockbuster show in the British Library’s reading halls. Critics Sarah Mower, Suzy Menkes and Cathy Horyn led a standing ovation, joined by industry insiders like Paul Smith and Laura Weir. Carzana’s serenity and sense of dream affirmed that fashion exists first and foremost to inspire, and that even the most improbable creations eventually filter into wardrobes, not because of commercial logic but because we all need a little magic in daily life.
SUIT UP.
If you’ve been debating whether to invest in a new suit next season, the answer is yes. At Burberry, Daniel Lee channelled early-2000s rock stars with slim cuts. Roksanda emphasised power dressing with sharply tailored lines that exuded confidence. Erdem offered alternatives: black smoking jackets with white trousers, or loose, double-breasted striped suits.
THE VERY MINI.
Spring is set to be all about the mini. At Burberry, A-line bohemian mini-dresses set the tone, while Chopova Lowena went ultra-short with checked and striped skirts. Other highlights included micro-shorts at Simone Rocha and Toga, functional cycling shorts at Johann Parv, hand-stitched cashmere bodysuits and voluminous minis at Pauline Dujancourt, embroidered minis at Ahluwalia, balloon skirts at Keburia and Kent & Curwen, and both lingerie-inspired and boxing shorts at Conner Ives. Dilara, ever provocative, presented tiny dresses and panties as part of her ongoing exploration of femininity.
DENIM REVISITED.
Denim emerged as a defining fabric this season, reimagined in multiple ways. At Burberry, Daniel Lee waterproofed denim for Glastonbury-ready Canadian tuxedos, trenches, bombers and cropped jeans. Priya Ahluwalia elevated denim into a couture material fit for eveningwear, while Marie Louder offered a functional-yet-poetic take on jeans as both everyday gear and attention-catching wardrobe staples. Harri introduced his first ready-to-wear line with denim centre stage alongside latex: tie-dye loose jeans, bombers and shirts in shades of blue, grey, black and white. For his London debut, New Zealand–based Rory William Docherty presented a Re-Work series: vintage denim deconstructed and rebuilt with prints, patchwork panels, and origami sleeves — proving once again that denim can be everything from utilitarian to dreamlike couture.
FRINGES.
One of the strongest trends of the week, fringes appeared across collections. Erdem, Ahluwalia and Roksanda worked them into suits and power looks, while Dilara used them as subversive chains or shimmering details. At Burberry, Conner Ives and Nanushka, fringes brought a bohemian spirit and an extra layer of movement.
A SEASON OF ANNIVERSARIES.
London Fashion Week was also about celebration. Roksanda Ilinčić and Erdem Moralıoğlu both marked 20 years (Erdem will officially celebrate in February 2026). David Koma hosted an intimate dinner for his 15th, while Fashion East toasted its 25th anniversary with a show and exhibition at the Institute of Contemporary Arts, highlighting alumni including JW Anderson, Simone Rocha, Craig Green, Kim Jones and Martine Rose. Rixo, meanwhile, threw a lively party for its 10th anniversary.
