Milan Fashion Week is just around the corner, but Gucci, and its newly-installed creative director, Demna, decided to shake things up a day early. Out of nowhere, the Italian powerhouse dropped its first-ever lookbook under Demna, giving the world a preview of what’s to come in a collection titled “La Famiglia.”
A family portrait of Gucci archetypes, shot by the brilliant Catherine Opie, the collection stakes out the territory for Demna’s era: unapologetically sexy, extravagant, and daring. And while the world might have expected chaos, what we got was something even better: a mix of revolution and reassurance. It’s bold, but it’s safe; subversive, yet impossible to critique negatively.
On the men’s side, the looks are a cheeky nod to archetypes we didn’t even know we needed: ‘Partyboy’ and ‘Narcisista’ shimmer in silk shirts unbuttoned to the hip and signature double-G belts, while ‘Figo’ (“Cool”) and ‘Androgino’ (“Androgynous”) keep chests on display in moto leather and sheer mesh. For those who prefer a little coverage, there’s the ‘Direttore’ in his impeccably tailored black suit, red tie, brooch, and aviators, or the ‘Nerd’ channeling Gucci’s ’70s green-and-red stripes in leather jackets and sweater vests with bow collars. And yes, for the daring, ‘Ragazzo’ and ‘Bastardo’ leave little to the imagination.
It’s classic Demna chaos, unexpected, guerrilla-style, and just a little bit mischievous. From Balenciaga’s Simpsons short film and masked Met Gala looks to the Afterworld video game preview, Demna has always thrived on upending the rules. And now, he’s bringing that same energy to Gucci.
The collection manages a delicate balancing act: it’s revolutionary without alienating the brand’s loyalists, sexy without being gratuitous, chaotic without feeling careless. And honestly? It’s better than we expected. It feels like a breath of fresh air in an industry leaning heavily on tried-and-true classics, proving that unpredictability can be both beautiful and sellable.
So, with “La Famiglia,” Demna reminds us that Gucci can still shock, delight, and redefine cool—all while staying unmistakably Gucci. And if this early look is any indication, Tuesday’s official unveiling will be nothing short of iconic.
