THE HERITAGE CRISIS: TRENDY IS NOT ALWAYS BEAUTIFUL.
The rise of celebrity-driven stunt-based culture and the social media age has put designers under increasing pressure to be “relevant.” But at what cost? Many creative directors are disregarding the DNA of the brands they helm in favor of personal expression, turning historic maisons into extensions of their own aesthetics rather than the legacy they inherited. It should be your touch on the brand, not the brand on your touch!
Take Valentino, for example. Once synonymous with the delicate femininity and refined glamour established by its founder, today it barely resembles its past. Alessandro Michele, now at the helm of Valentino, is bringing his signature maximalism and eclectic aesthetic to the house. We loved him at Gucci. His time there was pure magic and gave the brand the extra element it needed. While his approach was successful at Gucci, the question remains: will Valentino retain its identity, or will it transform into yet another extension of Michele’s distinct style?
And what of Chanel? The maison that Coco Chanel built was founded on effortless Parisian chic, a blend of power and grace. But since Karl Lagerfeld’s passing, (may his immaculate soul rest in peace), the brand has struggled to recapture the magic that once defined its couture collections. Virginie Viard, despite her long tenure under Lagerfeld, has leaned into a safer, more commercial vision that lacks the audacity and modernity Chanel once championed. Coco Chanel used her brand to be rebellious and break norms and I bet she’s not so happy now. Has Chanel’s couture soul been lost in translation? We wait to see what’s next after Viard’s departure, and Matthieu Blazy’s appointment as the new Creative Director. How will Matthieu revive the brand’s identity, and add to it his magical touch that we’ve seen during his tenure at Bottega Veneta?
ALESSANDO MICHELE: A VISIONARY WHO NEEDS HIS OWN LABEL (ASAP GIRL).
One of the most striking examples of identity dilution was Alessandro Michele’s reign at Gucci. His eccentric, vintage-infused maximalism was a bold departure from Tom Ford’s sleek sensuality and Frida Giannini’s elegant cool. While Michele’s tenure was commercially successful, the question remains: was it Gucci, or was it simply Alessandro Michele?
His personal aesthetic was so dominant that it overshadowed the brand’s roots, creating a world that felt entirely his own. And perhaps that’s the problem, his vision was so specific that it should have existed as its own brand, rather than a reinterpretation of Gucci. His tenure at Gucci might have been the best thing and the worst thing the brand will endure. The best being his stunning and unique vision of maximalism, and the worst being: what’s next? With Sabato De Sarno now at the helm, Gucci is once again in the midst of an identity recalibration. But will it ever regain the sophistication and appeal it once had?
NO TO LOGOS, YES TO CRAFTSMANSHIP.
In the rush to capture the zeitgeist, too many brands are blending into one another. Collections feel interchangeable, logos drive more sales than craftsmanship, and the distinctiveness that once set fashion houses apart is dissolving into a homogenous landscape of influencer-approved trends. Trends fade, but heritage shouldn’t.
I shall take this moment to clap the genius that is Daniel Roseberry. Roseberry has once again proved that craftsmanship and talent will remain the sole requirement for a brand’s success and longevity. Schiaparelli has become a reference in the world of couture. Every show leaves us, fashion lovers, in awe. But, how will other brands pull it together, and start focusing on talent and not revenue?
One notable element of this couture week remains worth mentioning: the return of drama to the runway. And for that, let us all say: THANK YOU JOHN GALLIANO. For years, we had to witness the dehumanizing of models. Some who were once considered icons of the runway, were blunt anorexic figures who were showcasing a wrong image of fashion. Galliano saw this and said NO MORE! He successfully brought back the Drama to fashion shows. Every show, in this couture week, felt like a theatrical piece. Models strutting on the runway whether in JPG by Ludovic de Saint-Dernin, Gaurav Gupta, Stephane Rolland and even Elie Saab!
The people LOVE the DRAMA. They live for it! This makes them fall in love with the piece even more. Once again, if not for Galliano’s legendary Margiela Artisanal show, we would still be stuck in Miuccia Prada’s blant catwalks.
The question remains: will luxury fashion return to its roots? Or is this the inevitable consequence of a digital era where hype overshadows history? True couture is more than just a fleeting aesthetic, it’s a legacy. When fashion loses its past, it risks losing its future.
AND DON’T FORGET, ANNA-LYSE IS ALWAYS WATCHING.
