As always, New York Fashion Week kicked off fashion month with the who’s who of the industry flocking to the Big Apple. While the collections ranged from classic to experimental, the overarching theme was a balance of practicality and statement-making. Some designers leaned into clean, refined silhouettes, while others pushed proportions, textures, and nostalgic references. It wasn’t the most daring season, but it delivered plenty of standout moments.
Here’s a look at what caught our attention this time around.
KHAITE: BIG KNITS, BIGGER ATTITUDE
Catherine Holstein set her show in what looked like an alien landing pad, which felt about right for a collection that was equal parts moody and mysterious. Her signature play on proportions was in full force. Think oversized blousons and second-skin bottoms, slinky thigh-high boots, and giant boa-constrictor-like knits that looked like they might just swallow you whole. Accessories? Black newsboy caps and leather opera gloves, because why not? While Holstein’s references were, let’s say, familiar (hello, Saint Laurent and The Row), she still delivered a collection that her ultra-cool clientele will eat up.
COACH: 90s NOSTALGIA BUT MAKE IT GRITTY
Stuart Vevers took a trip back to the grungy New York of the ‘90s, complete with synth-pop vibes and enough oversized layers to make a thrift store jealous. The result? A collection that felt like the stylish aftermath of an all-night rave: cropped leather jackets exposing just enough midriff, puddling denim clinging for dear life, and sheer vintage frocks layered over those giant, sweeping trousers. As for the accessories? Coach’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection required you to zoom in. From funky, dopamine-inducing sunglasses and fuzzy carrot and bunny bag and shoe charms, screwdriver earrings to models stomping around in cozy, rabbit-shaped slippers, Coach demanded attention to detail.
TORY BURCH: SPORTY WITH A TWIST
Tory Burch continued her streak of reinventing American classics with a sleek, modern twist. Think: elevated sweats in brushed Japanese jersey, refined zip fleece, and athletic mesh reimagined into a spiral-cut polo dress. There was texture galore, knits embroidered to look like tweed, silky filaments adding dimension to outerwear, and banker-stripe shirts with exaggerated cuffs for a business, but make it drama effect. And let’s not forget the animal prints. Bambi spots and tonal mouse jacquards had their moment. Practicality and playfulness? Burch nailed both.
MICHAEL KORS: LUXE MAXIMALISM
Michael Kors had one thing to say this season: Adults have money, and they deserve great fashion. Gone were the gimmicks; in their place, timeless tailoring, fluid layering, and effortless luxury. Neutral tones ruled the palette, accented by deep greens and purples, while fabrics played tricks on the eye (a silk dress disguised as plaid flannel, for example). The showstopper? A lightweight caramel trench and silk cady dress combo that proved versatility is the new luxury.
CALVIN KLEIN: A COMEBACK (SORT OF)
After six years off the runway, Calvin Klein’s return was one of the most highly anticipated events of the week. With Calvin himself seated in the front row (alongside the eternally cool Kate Moss and Christy Turlington), new creative director Veronica Leoni had the impossible task of reviving the brand’s high-fashion status. The result? A promising start but one that will need more heat to truly reclaim its throne.
CAROLINA HERRERA: ELEGANCE WITH AN EDGE
Wes Gordon transformed his runway into a winter garden, complete with thousands of cherry-red ranunculuses wired to the floor. The collection balanced Herrera’s signature opulence with fresh ease: brocades, jewel-toned lace, and foiled tweeds met modern silhouettes, bandeau tops, and leggy hemlines. But the real surprise? A shift toward relaxed, everyday tailoring with oversized blazers, knit dressing with sculptural details, and day-to-night pieces that seamlessly transitioned from power lunches to gala nights. And those sheer embroidered gowns? Expect to see them all over the red carpet.
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