In October 2024, the fashion world collectively leaned in as Pheobe Philo unveiled her sophomore range, ‘Collection B,’ in a minimalist studio in Paris’s 11th arrondissement. This marks a significant evolution for Philo’s namesake label, which launched just a year ago. While her debut ‘Collection A’ sold out in record time and solidified her cult status, ‘Collection B’ continues to build on her vision of season-less, high-quality design. With backing from LVMH as a minority investor, Philo’s independent house has struck a balance between exclusivity and accessibility, offering designs that feel both innovative and essential.
Philo’s latest creations carried a tension between restraint and rebellion, giving us something to think about, talk about, and, of course, wear.
From the get-go, the pieces challenged expectations. A T-shirt with a dramatic train? Check. A trench coat reimagined with asymmetrical hemlines and power shoulders? Absolutely. And in a move as counterintuitive as it was genius, Philo used cotton jersey—a fabric more at home in casual basics—to craft high-drama designs, while suiting wool took on unexpected forms, like a strong-shouldered dress cinched at the waist for an hourglass silhouette. The atelier also delivered shaggy viscose coats and skirts, each made to order.
Philo’s knack for texture and proportion was on full display. A black leather funnel-neck jacket with a flared back was also on display. Meanwhile, shaved shearling was ironed to a glossy finish and transformed into a bathrobe coat paired with wide pants. Even the most basic pieces were elevated: dark pinstriped shirts came slightly weathered, as though borrowed from a boyfriend who’d made a few questionable laundry decisions, giving a perfectly imperfect touch.
Her accessories were equally covetable. Chokers with cascading chain fringe, pillow-like scarves, and oversized floral brooches in technical nylon added edge and whimsy. Footwear ranged from chunky luxury flip-flops to high-heeled pumps.
For those eager to shop the collection, ‘Collection B’ is now live and available to shop on Phoebe Philo’s website.
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