On September 30, 2024, which would have marked Virgil Abloh’s 44th birthday, LVMH announced the sale of Off-White to Bluestar Alliance, a brand management company that oversees a diverse portfolio, including Scotch & Soda, Hurley, Bebe, and popular American teen brands like Justice and Limited Too. This acquisition raises important questions about the future of Off-White, a brand once celebrated as a trailblazer in luxury streetwear.
Founded in 2012 by Abloh, who became a pivotal figure in the luxury streetwear scene by seamlessly blending high fashion with street culture, Off-White quickly established itself as one of the industry’s most influential brands. Known for its striking aesthetics and cultural relevance, it achieved rapid global recognition. In 2021, just months before Abloh’s untimely passing, LVMH acquired a 60% stake in Off-White, signaling its confidence in the brand’s growth potential.
However, that vision did not fully come to fruition. Under the creative leadership of Ib Kamara, who took over after Abloh’s death, Off-White faced challenges in retaining its allure. While Kamara’s focus on themes such as gender fluidity and Black identity received attention, it failed to resonate with the brand’s core audience. As the streetwear market cooled, Off-White saw key wholesale partners begin to drop it, intensifying concerns about its future.
The sale to Bluestar Alliance comes at a pivotal moment for Off-White, which has struggled to find its direction since Abloh’s passing. In June 2023, Cristiano Fagnani was appointed CEO in a major shake-up at New Guards Group (NGG), the holding company that licenses the brand through Farfetch. With the licensing agreement set for renegotiation or termination in 2026, additional uncertainty looms over Off-White’s future.
In contrast, Bluestar’s CEO, Joey Gabbay, expressed enthusiasm for the acquisition, emphasizing the company’s commitment to honoring Abloh’s legacy. “Acquiring Off-White presents a unique opportunity for Bluestar Alliance to build upon the enduring legacy of Virgil Abloh,” Gabbay stated, noting how Abloh’s fusion of street culture and high fashion aligns with Bluestar’s vision of fostering innovation and diversity.
LVMH also released a statement celebrating Off-White’s legacy and expressing confidence in Bluestar’s capability to advance the brand. Although the financial details of the sale remain undisclosed, LVMH’s decision to part with Off-White indicates a strategic shift as the luxury group reallocates focus to other brands.
Despite the uncertainty surrounding its future, Off-White’s cultural significance is irrefutable. Abloh’s visionary approach reshaped the fashion landscape, carving out a place for streetwear in luxury and advocating for diversity and inclusivity. As Bluestar Alliance steps in, the challenge will be to maintain the brand’s relevance and prestige without compromising its core identity.
As Off-White embarks on this new chapter, only time will reveal whether it can sustain its position in the luxury market or evolve into a broader, more accessible brand. One thing remains certain: Virgil Abloh’s legacy will continue to resonate in the fashion world for years to come.
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