New York Fashion Week always promises drama, but Spring/Summer 2026 went for variety: some designers leaned into nostalgia, others into grit, and a few into unapologetic sparkle. The city’s runways swung from stripped-back minimalism to full-throttle maximalism, reminding us that fashion isn’t here to agree on one mood, it’s here to keep us on our toes.
TORY BURCH
Tory Burch tackled contradictions head-on: crisp polos met drop-waist dresses, and distressed leather cozied up to dainty florals. Imperfection was everywhere with frayed edges engineered to last, sheer polos “repaired” with seed beads, and tailoring that shifts shape thanks to hidden zippers. Accessories leaned heavy on pearls, sequins, and shells, while vintage-inspired shoes pulled from both menswear and rococo romance. It was American sportswear through a poetic, slightly rebellious filter.
COACH
At Pier 36 on the East River, Coach presented a love letter to New York itself. Stuart Vevers dialed into the city’s contradictions, presenting leather jackets stripped back to their bones, sun-faded tees that looked pulled from a thrift rack, and oversized denim that felt lived-in, not showroom fresh. The tailoring was neat but never uptight, sitting alongside workwear trousers and utility vests that carried a sense of borrowed history.
Soft pastels and playful tulle dresses, layered over casual tees, injected romance into the grit, while handbags leaned heavily on the house’s ‘Kisslock’ hardware in everything from suede to metallic foil. Sneakers came strapped instead of laced, with versions splashed in Dalmatian print or decorated with leather appliqués of hearts and clouds. The whole lineup had that New York duality: streetwise and practical, yet oddly tender, like the city itself after a long day.
RALPH LAUREN
Ralph Lauren leaned into elegance with his trademark minimalist tailoring in a strict palette of black, white, and red. But beneath the precision came playful twists: poet’s blouses, utility jackets with balloon trousers, and a cotton sundress built like a corset. Eveningwear swung between sculptural and fluid, while accessories doubled down on silver jewelry and artisanal handbags. It was Ralph’s signature dreamer-meets-doer energy, staged at his Madison Avenue HQ, where the clothes did all the talking.
CALVIN KLEIN
Veronica Leoni’s second outing for Calvin Klein doubled down on the house’s DNA: pared-back, raw, and a little provocative in that uniquely New York way. Shown at the Brant Foundation, the collection blended dishevelment with boardroom polish, making everyday staples feel cinematic. The trench coat, the pinafore, the jean jacket, even the polo were reworked with a kind of magnified simplicity.
Underwear was no longer hidden; it morphed into slip dresses edged in lace, camisoles styled as daywear, and a seamless tweed piece threaded with the brand’s iconic waistband. Fabrics played tricks, too: leather laser-cut to mimic terrycloth, intarsia patchworks stitched into fringe, and silk jerseys made to look liquid on the body. The palette stayed mostly urban neutral — black, grey, white — but flickers of scarlet, pink, and fern green kept things alive. Accessories leaned minimal but clever, giving us a collection stripped of excess but not of attitude.
AREA
Nicholas Aburn’s debut for Area brought unapologetic razzle. Jerseys stitched into dresses, tourist tees turned into couture, and pom-poms recast as cocktail wear. It was camp Americana at its most fun, like a cheer squad crashing a downtown loft party. Against a season thick with minimalism, Aburn’s glitter-soaked vision was pure rebellion.
KHAITE
Catherine Holstein opened with a blazer sliced and wrapped in ways that shouldn’t work—but of course did. From leather pencil skirts belted over sheer blouses to oversized polka dots on slouchy knits, the collection was stealth wealth with a dose of street bite. Bags and shoes multiplied, cropped jackets got sharper, and tailoring refused to play nice. Nearly a decade in, Khaite is still defining New York cool, with that quiet confidence only a cult-favorite can pull off.
MICHAEL KORS
Michael Kors, forever the jet-set storyteller, brought wanderlust back home. His “Earthy Elegance” show mixed Morocco sunsets with Manhattan speed, in kaftans, suede shirts, soft tailoring, and sequins that swayed as models walked. Movement was key. Tassel earrings, fringing, and drapery ensured the clothes felt alive. With desert-inspired hues and a philosophy rooted in ease, Michael Kors reminded us that American fashion’s greatest export is still comfort with glamour folded in as carry-on.
